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V1 LeoZug's Montana Street Goblin - '05 Cobalt SS donor

Traé
I love the fabricating and assembling part. And of course the driving part. But I feel like every step of this project has been a pain. Between the super hit-or-miss instructions and the straight up feeling of “I have no idea where this goes or what it is” more times than I can count, I’ve lost enough sleep due to cars. IF I do another car it will be a runner that needs to be cleaned up. This project has devolved into not fun at all.
It takes patience, I had never done anything remotely close to this in the automotive world other than basic maintenance. If you run into an issue, comb the forum and ask for help. I see your posts pop up all the time and myself and others flood them with helpful advice.

You’ll get there eventually and the community is here to help. I would have never finished my build if I didn’t have the knowledge from the forum.

A lot of aspects of the project can be frustrating, especially if doing it alone. Once it all comes together and you drive it for the first time it’s an amazing feeling!
 
A
"Once it all comes together and you drive it for the first time it’s an amazing feeling!"
[/QUOTE]
I wish I was hanging out with our Family in Billings! I'd stop by! You can do this, the 406 ain't fulla quiters!:cool::cool:
 
L
So I installed the tunnel covers and I feel like my shifter isn’t working properly. It’s seems like the shift pattern is rotated 90 degrees. See the drawing to see what I mean. I don’t know if those are the actual shift positions but that’s what it seems like. Did I set this up properly?
 

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comegetjoe
So I installed the tunnel covers and I feel like my shifter isn’t working properly. It’s seems like the shift pattern is rotated 90 degrees. See the drawing to see what I mean. I don’t know if those are the actual shift positions but that’s what it seems like. Did I set this up properly?


I do believe youve got your cables crossed. So swap your cables on the trans end (probably easier than swapping on the tunnel) and see what you get.

As self proclaimed King Grumpy and definitely King of odd shift patterns, this is an easy fix.
 
L
So I got my new (‘06) fuel pump to replace the ‘05 fuel pump that the harness plug didn’t fit on. But since I cut off the plug that came on my harness, I need to identify the harness wires to connect to my new plug. The harness wires are all black and the same size so I used my volt meter to try to identify them and I’m having major issues. I figured I’d start with trying to find ground. All 4 wires seem to fluctuate wildly. Same when I turn the key to ACC and try to find power. The only wire that seems to provide any steady power only reads 5v. I really don’t know how anyone would have advice at this point but I’m not sure what to do next.
 
Ross
If you disconnect your PCM C1 plug, you can use your multimeter to find the fuel level wires listed here.
The fuel pump gets ground, and power from the rear fusebox.
Did I give you enough info to continue, or do you need directions on how to use a meter? Or how to find the correct plugs to pull off the PCM & fusebox?
 
A
You are going to have to strip the wiring loom/covering further back to find the original wire colors. I believe the one showing 5V is the pink wire but call that an informed guess. The ground wire should show no voltage but show direct path to ground. IT is the one that is supposed to be black!, haha.
 
L
If you disconnect your PCM C1 plug, you can use your multimeter to find the fuel level wires listed here.
The fuel pump gets ground, and power from the rear fusebox.
Did I give you enough info to continue, or do you need directions on how to use a meter? Or how to find the correct plugs to pull off the PCM & fusebox?
Thanks! This should get me going but I’ll reach out for sure if I need more direction. I have a simple fluke multimeter so it should be good enough.
 
L
I cut the tape back a bit and found some color! I'm not getting 12v from the thicker grey wire. My grounds seem to be good. Any ideas where to start looking for that issue?
 

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L
Yeah. It's a little 15 amp? visually it looks ok. I could use my volt meter to double check the fuse itself. I was going to put little jumpers in the fuse socket to check with my volt meter that 12v is getting to it. Would a bad relay disrupt power?
 
Ross
Yes, a bad relay can stop the fuel pump. The PCM decides when to turn on the fuel pump, based on "internal logic". This probably is: - key is on, - VATS doesn't have any security issues, - no serious DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes/ OBDii codes) - turn on fuel pump. If the PCM sends power to the fuel pump relay, then the relay should go click, and then power from the fuel pump 15A fuse flows to the fuel pump motor.
 
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