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V1 Matt3458's Daily Goblin - 2006 SS/SC #480

G
Can someone confirm if these brake fittings are tightened enough? I know I stopped when it got real tough. I don't want to over tighten, but I'd rather prevent leaks if I can help it.
No way that this can be done from a picture. You might want to tighten/loosen them several times to help to get them to "seat". But beyond that it's tight enough when they don't leak.
 
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Ross
My superpower that recognizes torque based on a photo, is broken. Put brake fluid in, bleed the air out, and then check all the fittings to see if you have any leaks. Tighten accordingly. I almost always have brake line leaks, but back off the nut, jam it back on, and keep monitoring them until the brake system runs dry.
 
L
I had the same problem. I put a tiny amount of anti-sieze on the threads to held them tighten easily then tighten,loosen,tighten,loosen. Fixed all my leaks.
 
Robinjo
Did you tighten, release them and then re-tighten?
Just looking at them I'm not sure anyone will be able to give you a 'passing' verdict. Only one way to truly find out.
 
Matt3458
Did you tighten, release them and then re-tighten?
Just looking at them I'm not sure anyone will be able to give you a 'passing' verdict. Only one way to truly find out.

I don't expect anyone to be able to look and say "yeah that's good". More that I've never worked with brakes before, and want to be sure that 'tight is tight' and not 'fitting must be flush'.
 
Matt3458
Was pushing hard to attempt a first start today, but i think I'm shutdown by the fuel line. The video (from last month) use hardware from a K007 bag. Went through everything I have, and all the pictures of the hardware from when my kit arrived, and I don't have one. I think I got a bag for a NA engine, K12A? The fittings are also different sizes, only one will fit at the fuel filter or the fuel rail. Really bummed about this, after this was going to be add fuel, connect battery, and crank.
 

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Rttoys
You might be able to build your own from stuff at your local auto parts. I know I cut the hard plastic fuel lines, saving the connectors and used rubber line to the filter. then find an adaptor from filer to use more fuel line (or to connect the stock line if you kept it).

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IMG_4018.png
 
Traé
I ordered some Dorman quick connects from Amazon and installed the fuel filter under the coolant tank. I think it made for a clean install and shortened the amount of fuel line I had to buy. Just an idea I saw on the forum and liked the location and look.
53634
 
Matt3458
I've delayed this post long enough. I have the dreaded No Crank.
What I have:
-HX Fan Runs
-HX Pp Runs
-Fuel Pp runs
-12V in RUN and START at CRANK RELAY inputs (Pins 30 and 86)
-12V through the whole starting circuitry to the PCM C1 connector pin 48
-Car ran when I jumped the crank relay. Ran a bit rough, RPMs surging, maybe because MAF isn't hooked up yet? Exhaust sounded awesome when revving though.
-All fuses have continuity
-Clutch switches have continuity
-Ground points all have low resistance to battery.
-Crank relay does not click when key in START.
-Swapped with known working relay, same result.

My possible culprits:
-Don't have a path to ground from the output of the CRANK RELAY (pin 85). Maybe the Starter Relay Coil Control is not closing to allow current flow?
-I can't find what the starter relay coil control actually is or what wires control it. I'm thinking maybe hi speed data, based on other members' no crank discussions?
-Tried to hook up a OBDII bluetooth sensor, dang thing wouldn't download car information and kept erroring out. Related symptom, or crap product?

Attached are pictures of dash lights on startup and after startup.
1000030993.jpg1000030994.jpg
starting checks.png
 
Traé
This sounds like something I experienced. the cause of my issue was that the pins on my fuse box for the crank relay were likely spread apart when I was checking power with a multimeter and jammed the test prongs into the slots.

I too was able to jump the crank relay and it would crank. Never worked with other relays. Had power everywhere I needed it.

I ended up slightly twisting my crank relay prongs and the issue went away and never returned.

Maybe worth a shot?

pic of where I jammed the multimeter in.
53673
 
Ross
I've delayed this post long enough. I have the dreaded No Crank.
What I have:
-HX Fan Runs
-HX Pp Runs
-Fuel Pp runs
-12V in RUN and START at CRANK RELAY inputs (Pins 30 and 86)
-12V through the whole starting circuitry to the PCM C1 connector pin 48
The PCM isn't giving ground to the starter circuit. You need to pull the OBDii codes to find out what is going on.
-Car ran when I jumped the crank relay. Ran a bit rough, RPMs surging, maybe because MAF isn't hooked up yet? Exhaust sounded awesome when revving though.
My goblin did this when I had a high speed LAN data issue. I could turn the key on, jump the starter, and the car ran... without most of the dash working.
-All fuses have continuity
-Clutch switches have continuity
-Ground points all have low resistance to battery.
-Crank relay does not click when key in START.
-Swapped with known working relay, same result.

My possible culprits:
-Don't have a path to ground from the output of the CRANK RELAY (pin 85).
Maybe the Starter Relay Coil Control is not closing to allow current flow?
Exactly. That is how the PCM controls the circuit - by proving ground.
-I can't find what the starter relay coil control actually is or what wires control it. I'm thinking maybe hi speed data, based on other members' no crank discussions?
-Tried to hook up a OBDII bluetooth sensor, dang thing wouldn't download car information and kept erroring out. Related symptom, or crap product?
Maybe borrow a reader from your local parts store, or a friend. Or start checking the OBDii port, and make sure you are getting 12V, 5V, grounds, etc.
Attached are pictures of dash lights on startup and after startup.
View attachment 53670View attachment 53671
View attachment 53672
 
G
Are you sure the pcm provides ground to control the starter relay. The later models have the ECM providing positive voltage with a full time ground. But it’s very possible that it was changed.
 
Matt3458
Maybe borrow a reader from your local parts store, or a friend. Or start checking the OBDii port, and make sure you are getting 12V, 5V, grounds, etc.

My dad's got a basic reader in going to grab in the morning, to start with. Sounds like I have thread to follow, at least.
 
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