• We've upgraded and reskinned the forum. Notice something off? Email us at [email protected] and we'll fix it.

V1 Robinjo #405 Full Cage - 2006 SS/SC Build "Drago"

Robinjo
Can you tell a difference in the sound of the SC with the new oil in the coupler?
I haven’t run it yet. The gasket needs 24 hours to cure before putting in the oil, so tomorrow morning. I expect it to be quieter with how worn the OEM coupler was. It had ~140k on it, so had a long life. The old coupler was definitely worn out as it slid off. The new one had to be gently tapped into place.

Edit: much quieter now. Recommend this if your s/c coupler is getting noisy.
 
Last edited:
Robinjo
I only called them out because they are easily found on the website and owners. All others I kept vague but you all know the big contributors mentioned.
 
Rttoys
Weight in mine (short chassis like yours) same setup as yours:

Front weight 600#
Rear weight 1000#

“you can do whatever you want with it. Even if you want to drill a bunch of holes in it “ :D:D

cool video
 
Last edited:
Desert Sasqwatch
Weight in mine (short chassis like yours) same setup as yours:

Front weight 600#
Rear weight 1000#

“you can do whatever you want with it. Even if you want to drill a bunch of holes in it “ :D:D

cool video
9pxX.gif
 
Robinjo
Weight in mine (short chassis like yours) same setup as yours:
Front weight 600#
Rear weight 1000#

“you can do whatever you want with it. Even if you want to drill a bunch of holes in it “ :D:D
cool video
I knew someone had the ratio but I couldn't find it.
It wasn't meant to be a shot at DS but more of a statement that it's your build to do as you please. The fact it low key roasts another member is just a nice coincidence....

Poor Squatch.... always punched at for being a "boring" kind of guy.....
After a while it's just the same old drill....

Now that's a better one!
 
Robinjo
Changed the timing chain tensioner tonight. That was super easy, can’t believe I put this off so long. Maybe an hour overall but I went slow. I activated the tensioner before installing and that was easy too.
 
Robinjo
Did a full alignment, the thing was close. Started out with about 2 degree off level on the front LCA's and brought the ride height up just a little. Then, checked the caster with the passenger side was about 8 degree and the drivers side at about 7.5 degrees. Camber in the front was way off after all this as was the toe. I had previously gone with a 0mm toe and liked it but was going to try 1mm toe in for a bit. Not completely sold on the 0mm toe after the first drive but do still need to get used to the overall as it feels better. The steering wheel still doesn't return to center on it's own.

End results were: (Passenger/Drivers in degrees unless noted)
LCA level: -0.10 / -0.50
Caster: 9.05 / 9.10
Camber: -0.40 / -0.45
Toe: 1mm in both sides (-0.08 degrees)

GoblinFest Items (October 4th-6th)
  • Alignment
  • Make rear camber adjustable
  • Cut and tint new screen (at tint shop)
  • SC Coupler/Oil change to new unit
  • Engine oil change - right before we go.
  • Clean laminova cores/new O-rings
  • Flush brake/clutch fluid
  • Check all torque items
 
Robinjo
Teheran steering wheel
I'm not sure what that is, can you explain further?

When turning and I let go of the wheel, it does not go back to center like a regular car. You have to manually center the wheel after a turn. When going straight the wheel is very straight and it's in the center of the lock to lock.
 
G
I'm not sure what that is, can you explain further?

When turning and I let go of the wheel, it does not go back to center like a regular car. You have to manually center the wheel after a turn. When going straight the wheel is very straight and it's in the center of the lock to lock.

Sorry, I must have had a tremor going on when I was typing "the".

Was your castor measured the "DF" way? I have doubts about the accuracy of doing it that way since the angle is measured over such a short distance. I have castor/alignment plates with the quicktrick alignment system if you want to use it. Or keep adding castor until it works better.

I don't know of anything beyond enough castor that would cause a lack of "return to straight/center".
 
Rttoys
Was your castor measured the "DF" way? I have doubts about the accuracy of doing it that way since the angle is measured over such a short distance. I have castor/alignment plates with the quicktrick alignment system if you want to use it. Or keep adding castor until it works better.

The best thing about everyone measuring caster the same way is we all have the same numbers, so even if it’s “off”, it’s the same as everyone else’s. If that makes sense.

looking at my notes, I'm 8.1° dr and 8.7° pass on my caster. I can remember mine returns to center coming out of a curve, but can’t remember on a hard turn. I’m going for a drive today so I’ll pay attention.
 
Robinjo
Sorry, I must have had a tremor going on when I was typing "the".

Was your castor measured the "DF" way? I have doubts about the accuracy of doing it that way since the angle is measured over such a short distance. I have castor/alignment plates with the quicktrick alignment system if you want to use it. Or keep adding castor until it works better.

I don't know of anything beyond enough castor that would cause a lack of "return to straight/center".

I used the DF method with an angle gauge. I'm going to drive it as is for a bit to see what I think.
 
G
The best thing about everyone measuring caster the same way is we all have the same numbers, so even if it’s “off”, it’s the same as everyone else’s. If that makes sense.
Not sure I agree. I think there is too much of a chance of tolerance stack up. So one person's 8 degrees might be another's 5 degrees. But I haven't tried to calculate what it would take make a 3 degree difference in 3(?) inches.

But castor is about the only thing that can cause the lack of return to center that I can think of. Which makes me think that "8 degrees" on one car works and doesn't on another. I guess maybe something going on with the EPS? Maybe try it with the EPS unplugged? Or maybe if something else in the alignment is really screwed up?
 
Rttoys
Not sure I agree. I think there is too much of a chance of tolerance stack up. So one person's 8 degrees might be another's 5 degrees. But I haven't tried to calculate what it would take make a 3 degree difference in 3(?) inches.

But castor is about the only thing that can cause the lack of return to center that I can think of. Which makes me think that "8 degrees" on one car works and doesn't on another. I guess maybe something going on with the EPS? Maybe try it with the EPS unplugged? Or maybe if something else in the alignment is really screwed up?

I can see a few tenths off, not really several degrees. I remember doing mine originally the old school way, turning the wheel for a caster sweep. Then at goblnfest we aligned the one we built that week and checked a few other using the other method as in the link. Later when I was doing some adjusting on mine, I used Lonny’s method and haven’t gone back to a caster sweep. I want to say they are real close to the same numbers, but that was years ago and haven’t touched the front end alignment in a long time. If I get some time I’ll do both methods and see how close they are. I need to align everything before goblinfest anyways.

I have always wondered if the esp messes with the return to center due to the lack of weight on the front of our cars. I’d like to know if someone with full manual steering, has any of these same problems.
 
Back
Top