Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
So some of us have very little progress to show for, if the number of boxes is the indicator. 
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V1 Robinjo #405 Full Cage - 2006 SS/SC Build "Drago"
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
- Robinjo Goblin Guru
Day 37 8/30/2022
Hours Worked: 2.5
Total Hours: 106
(Assembly Hours: 45.0)
Tonight we installed the rear lighting system. This included the rear taillights, license plate light and the 3rd (third) brake light setup. I'm holding the 3rd brake light on with the Craftcloud 3D printed brackets that Rauq provided the design for. Once I get slightly longer bolts to go through the unit, it'll be fully wrapped up. The bracket seems to hold tightly, just from playing with it a little bit. I also started drilling the holes and installing rivnuts to hold on the side panels. Of course, my cordless drill gave out with three more holes to go. Aggravating, but we'll wrap this up another day.
3rd Brake Light Bracket
dfkitcar.com
3rd Brake Light Purchased - Note: Apparently white is ground, not black. That caused a little confusion until I looked at the wiring schematic on the Amazon page. If your more savvy than me at wiring, you can have constant on (low light) along with bright with applying the brakes. I just left it as on/off.
Craftcloud: Note: I ordered a bunch of stuff through them. Decent price and quick turn around!
Tail Lights - Wiring I followed, worked 1st time (major relief!)
dfkitcar.com
License Plate Lighting - Note- goes in easy. Can be put just about anywhere you want. The light unit looks small, the holes distance are the distance of a plate holes.
Rivnuts for Side Panels - Note: I used M4 again. I want to be able to easily remove the panels for wrapping whenever we see fit. There will be lock washers and plastic washers to keep things quieter. Possibly some foam tape on the frame too.
Question about a port on the top of the brake reservoir. See thread here:
dfkitcar.com
Need photos for all
Issues to deal with:
Headlight - On it's way!
Coolant Pump Issue - Fuse is good and getting 12v to the plug.
No start issue after sitting - Fuse #8 popped on the BCM. Issue resolved.
Need more 3/8" OD nylon tubing - On it's way
Lower strut mount bolt/nut missing - On it's way
Brake Reservoir Top Port
Hours Worked: 2.5
Total Hours: 106
(Assembly Hours: 45.0)
Tonight we installed the rear lighting system. This included the rear taillights, license plate light and the 3rd (third) brake light setup. I'm holding the 3rd brake light on with the Craftcloud 3D printed brackets that Rauq provided the design for. Once I get slightly longer bolts to go through the unit, it'll be fully wrapped up. The bracket seems to hold tightly, just from playing with it a little bit. I also started drilling the holes and installing rivnuts to hold on the side panels. Of course, my cordless drill gave out with three more holes to go. Aggravating, but we'll wrap this up another day.
3rd Brake Light Bracket
Custom STL Files for 3D Printed Goblin Parts
I flew north on Monday. Saw a new race track under construction, just south of I-8 Cali to Az) I- 8. Anyone got any intel on this? Looks like fun.
3rd Brake Light Purchased - Note: Apparently white is ground, not black. That caused a little confusion until I looked at the wiring schematic on the Amazon page. If your more savvy than me at wiring, you can have constant on (low light) along with bright with applying the brakes. I just left it as on/off.
Craftcloud: Note: I ordered a bunch of stuff through them. Decent price and quick turn around!
Tail Lights - Wiring I followed, worked 1st time (major relief!)
Tailight wiring help needed
I have the DF supplied taillights which have the 2 connectors, one with 2 wires and one with 3 wires. Does anyone have a diagram of how the 4 harness wires are connected to these? I looked but only found info on non-DF supplied lights. Thanks!
License Plate Lighting - Note- goes in easy. Can be put just about anywhere you want. The light unit looks small, the holes distance are the distance of a plate holes.
Rivnuts for Side Panels - Note: I used M4 again. I want to be able to easily remove the panels for wrapping whenever we see fit. There will be lock washers and plastic washers to keep things quieter. Possibly some foam tape on the frame too.
Question about a port on the top of the brake reservoir. See thread here:
Brake Reservoir Port
What is this port on the brake reservoir on the top used for, with the hose I have attached?
Need photos for all
Issues to deal with:
Coolant Pump Issue - Fuse is good and getting 12v to the plug.
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Robinjo
Goblin Guru
- Robinjo Goblin Guru
Day 38 9/03/2022
Hours Worked: 2.5
Total Hours: 106
(Assembly Hours: 47.5)
Tonight we installed the rear brakes and e-brake cables. The brakes are a little tricky the first time you install them, I had to watcha few videos on them just to get the pad orientation right. Methodology: First, install the black bracket that holds the brake assembly. You won't be able to get it into place with the rotors in the way. I then installed the rotor and affixed it with two lug nuts, just to keep it from flopping around as much. Next, you want to bolt in the caliper bracket and install the pads. Keep in mind, the one with the spring on the top of the pad goes to the inside (reverse of my photo). Now you can install the actual caliper, the slide studs come off with an Allen wrench. Last step is to install the braided hose and install your clip. I could only get the clip to go in over the hole/mount. After that we installed the e-brake cables. They attach easily, just route them what ever way works best. I attached the cables to the handle, then worked back to the caliper. To get the connector into the caliper, you have to work the e-brake lever on the caliper. We went to bleed the brakes/clutch and found out the Motive Unit doesn't come with caps. So, order a GM cap when you order the unit. I just assumed it came with various caps, but never checked the box until we needed to use it.
Brakes - Note: So much trouble with pad orientation!
dfkitcar.com
E-Brake - Note: I'm going to order new cables. Mine are a little rusty and I'd like to route them over the control arm.
No photos.
dfkitcar.com
Issues to deal with:
Coolant Pump Issue - On it's way, arrives 9/08
Motive Top Cap - Ordered, arrives 9/07
Hours Worked: 2.5
Total Hours: 106
(Assembly Hours: 47.5)
Tonight we installed the rear brakes and e-brake cables. The brakes are a little tricky the first time you install them, I had to watcha few videos on them just to get the pad orientation right. Methodology: First, install the black bracket that holds the brake assembly. You won't be able to get it into place with the rotors in the way. I then installed the rotor and affixed it with two lug nuts, just to keep it from flopping around as much. Next, you want to bolt in the caliper bracket and install the pads. Keep in mind, the one with the spring on the top of the pad goes to the inside (reverse of my photo). Now you can install the actual caliper, the slide studs come off with an Allen wrench. Last step is to install the braided hose and install your clip. I could only get the clip to go in over the hole/mount. After that we installed the e-brake cables. They attach easily, just route them what ever way works best. I attached the cables to the handle, then worked back to the caliper. To get the connector into the caliper, you have to work the e-brake lever on the caliper. We went to bleed the brakes/clutch and found out the Motive Unit doesn't come with caps. So, order a GM cap when you order the unit. I just assumed it came with various caps, but never checked the box until we needed to use it.
Brakes - Note: So much trouble with pad orientation!
Rear Brake Caliper Install
Hi All, Trying to get the rear brakes installed and could use some pictures for an 09 TC car in many angles. Also could use help on which bolts to use. There are 8 in the kit with 4 washers but not sure where everything goes. I have scoured the forum and google and still don't have what I am...
E-Brake - Note: I'm going to order new cables. Mine are a little rusty and I'd like to route them over the control arm.
No photos.
Parking brake cable route
Is it the builders option or is there a correct way to route the parking brake cable around the rear A-arm? Above the A-arm and below the axle or below the A-arm?
Issues to deal with:
Coolant Pump Issue - On it's way, arrives 9/08
Motive Top Cap - Ordered, arrives 9/07
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Robinjo
Goblin Guru
- Robinjo Goblin Guru
Day 38 9/03/2022
Hours Worked: 2.5
Total Hours: 111.0
(Assembly Hours: 50.0)
Tonight we ran the shifter cables from the trans to the tunnel base. This should have been straightforward but I got in my head about the cable orientation (see the link below). If you have trouble getting the connector to snap onto the ball stud, try removing the clip. I fought with the snaps for 30-45 minute. After advice to remove the snaps, it went on easily, maybe 1 minute. 2 if you include reinstalling the snap clip. As far as adjusting and getting setup, see the link that Lonnie recommends. He walks it through very clearly. I haven't installed the shifter housing yet, we cross-threaded the brass stud. I fought with this for an hour trying to fix the cross-thread, with no success.
Cable Photos
dfkitcar.com
Need interior cable photos, once sorted.....
Adjustment Settings
dfkitcar.com
Issues to deal with:
Coolant Pump Issue - On it's way, arrives 9/08
Motive Top Cap - Ordered, arrives 9/07
Shift rod cross-threaded on end
Missing one shifter connection in the bottom of the shift lever housing
Hours Worked: 2.5
Total Hours: 111.0
(Assembly Hours: 50.0)
Tonight we ran the shifter cables from the trans to the tunnel base. This should have been straightforward but I got in my head about the cable orientation (see the link below). If you have trouble getting the connector to snap onto the ball stud, try removing the clip. I fought with the snaps for 30-45 minute. After advice to remove the snaps, it went on easily, maybe 1 minute. 2 if you include reinstalling the snap clip. As far as adjusting and getting setup, see the link that Lonnie recommends. He walks it through very clearly. I haven't installed the shifter housing yet, we cross-threaded the brass stud. I fought with this for an hour trying to fix the cross-thread, with no success.
Cable Photos
Shift Cable Troubles
Is the right? Is there some trick to get the connector to pop onto the ball? Also, the cable on the left (red mark) in the engine bay, does it go on the left or right of the interior?
Adjustment Settings
Manual shifter installation and adjustment
Step one Install your tunnel cover. Step two Install your shifter cable bracket Step three Identify one of the cables on both ends with a sharpie mark or piece of tape. Route your two shifter cables along the tunnel and through the opening in the firewall. The cables need to be positioned...
Issues to deal with:
Coolant Pump Issue - On it's way, arrives 9/08
Motive Top Cap - Ordered, arrives 9/07
Shift rod cross-threaded on end
Missing one shifter connection in the bottom of the shift lever housing
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
- Robinjo Goblin Guru
Day 38 9/03/2022
Hours Worked: 2.0
Total Hours: 113.0
(Assembly Hours: 52.0)
Today we got the seat stock seats in place. Make you life easier and cut the teeth off the bottom of the rails. I fought with the drivers seat for about 1.0 and then pulled it back out. Cut off the tabs and they both went in in about 30 minutes. I did mis-install the hardware initially. I had the nut under the car, it should be reversed. I fixed this very easily, took maybe 10 minutes to swap it all over. Note on the stock seats, they hit the shifter mechanism before fully moving forward. There is maybe 3-4 inches of adjustment.
Seat Installed
Issues to deal with:
Coolant Pump Issue - On it's way, arrives 9/08
Motive Top Cap - Ordered, arrives 9/07
Shift rod cross-threaded on end
Missing one shifter connection in the bottom of the shift lever housing
Hours Worked: 2.0
Total Hours: 113.0
(Assembly Hours: 52.0)
Today we got the seat stock seats in place. Make you life easier and cut the teeth off the bottom of the rails. I fought with the drivers seat for about 1.0 and then pulled it back out. Cut off the tabs and they both went in in about 30 minutes. I did mis-install the hardware initially. I had the nut under the car, it should be reversed. I fixed this very easily, took maybe 10 minutes to swap it all over. Note on the stock seats, they hit the shifter mechanism before fully moving forward. There is maybe 3-4 inches of adjustment.
Seat Installed
Issues to deal with:
Coolant Pump Issue - On it's way, arrives 9/08
Motive Top Cap - Ordered, arrives 9/07
Shift rod cross-threaded on end
Missing one shifter connection in the bottom of the shift lever housing
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
- Robinjo Goblin Guru
Day 39 9/05/2022
Hours Worked: 0.5
Total Hours: 113.5
(Assembly Hours: 52.5)
Seat Belts are all fixed up, needed an extra grade 8 bolt to fit the top most connection.
Issues to deal with:
Coolant Pump Issue - On it's way, arrives 9/08
Motive Top Cap - Ordered, arrives 9/07
Shift rod cross-threaded on end
Missing one shifter connection in the bottom of the shift lever housing
Hours Worked: 0.5
Total Hours: 113.5
(Assembly Hours: 52.5)
Seat Belts are all fixed up, needed an extra grade 8 bolt to fit the top most connection.
Issues to deal with:
Coolant Pump Issue - On it's way, arrives 9/08
Motive Top Cap - Ordered, arrives 9/07
Missing one shifter connection in the bottom of the shift lever housing
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
- Robinjo Goblin Guru
Day 40 9/09/2022
Hours Worked: 3.0
Total Hours: 116.5
(Assembly Hours: 55.5)
Tonight we installed the e-brake cables (which were wrong from Rock Auto), test fit the Motive Cap (no leaks!), installed the new ZZP heat exchanger pump, the mirrors, headlights and swapped the shifter cables. The only real issue was after routing the e-brake cables, it became very clear that Rock Auto sent me base model cables and not SS cables. So, those are now on order (again) along with some items from DF Goblin.
One thing I will note, this new HX pump definitely works. If you have any question as to if yours if flowing or not, it's not. As soon as it came on you could easily tell fluid was flowing (fast!).
Headlights Note: I used this scheme for the side markers/mirrors. Worked first try, high and low beams!
dfkitcar.com
Mirrors Note: I used this scheme for the side markers/mirrors. Worked first try!
dfkitcar.com
Issues to deal with:
Coolant Pump Issue - On it's way, arrives 9/08
Motive Top Cap - Ordered, arrives 9/07
e-Brake Cables
Shifter Mechanism
Hours Worked: 3.0
Total Hours: 116.5
(Assembly Hours: 55.5)
Tonight we installed the e-brake cables (which were wrong from Rock Auto), test fit the Motive Cap (no leaks!), installed the new ZZP heat exchanger pump, the mirrors, headlights and swapped the shifter cables. The only real issue was after routing the e-brake cables, it became very clear that Rock Auto sent me base model cables and not SS cables. So, those are now on order (again) along with some items from DF Goblin.
One thing I will note, this new HX pump definitely works. If you have any question as to if yours if flowing or not, it's not. As soon as it came on you could easily tell fluid was flowing (fast!).
Headlights Note: I used this scheme for the side markers/mirrors. Worked first try, high and low beams!
Tailight wiring help needed
I have the DF supplied taillights which have the 2 connectors, one with 2 wires and one with 3 wires. Does anyone have a diagram of how the 4 harness wires are connected to these? I looked but only found info on non-DF supplied lights. Thanks!
Mirrors Note: I used this scheme for the side markers/mirrors. Worked first try!
Mirror wiring
Does anyone have the color order of the wires for the side mirrors? I know on one thread they have matching colors that go to different wires (all orange, red, and green but match differently). My chassis wires are orange, red, and green, then the mirror wires are green, white, and yellow. I...
Issues to deal with:
Motive Top Cap - Ordered, arrives 9/07
e-Brake Cables
Shifter Mechanism
escapepilot
Goblin Guru
- escapepilot Goblin Guru
Making great progress! I like how you're tracking assembly time. I was wondering how long it would take to build one but I didn't think about it till well into my build. That, and I'm not very disciplined on keeping time records.
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
- Robinjo Goblin Guru
Day 41 9/10/2022
Hours Worked: 1.0
Total Hours: 116.5
(Assembly Hours: 55.5)
Today I used the Motive Power Bleeder to push fluid through the brake system. This thing is soo much better than the old down/up 2-man ordeal of the olden days! We still used two persons, but one just manned the pump to keep it between 12 and 13 psi. Everything was going smooth until the final step of working the clutch to push air out of the wonky GM slave cylinder setup. That is when it became very apparent that the clutch master cylinder was done. New one on order, but not fearing bleeding the system. Also, installed the 'firewall' to the M4 rivnuts, this went very smoothly.
Note from today: the clutch line bleeding port is a B to get to! Others had mentioned it, but wow that is a pain. Fuse box had to come out to get to a look at the port. It's 9mm, if you have a short wrench you'll need it.
No photos from today's defeat.... We're just a few items away from running a small, around the blocks test drive. SOOOO CLOSE!!!
Items to complete:
Shifter Mechanism
Clutch Master Cylinder
Bleed Brakes
E-Brake Cables
Install Side Panels
Install Hood and Windshield
Ride Height
Alignment
Issues to deal with:
Coolant Pump Issue - On it's way, arrives 9/08
Motive Top Cap - Ordered, arrives 9/07
e-Brake Cables (arrived TBD)
Shifter Mechanism (arrives TBD)
Clutch Master Cylinder (arrives 9/12)
Hours Worked: 1.0
Total Hours: 116.5
(Assembly Hours: 55.5)
Today I used the Motive Power Bleeder to push fluid through the brake system. This thing is soo much better than the old down/up 2-man ordeal of the olden days! We still used two persons, but one just manned the pump to keep it between 12 and 13 psi. Everything was going smooth until the final step of working the clutch to push air out of the wonky GM slave cylinder setup. That is when it became very apparent that the clutch master cylinder was done. New one on order, but not fearing bleeding the system. Also, installed the 'firewall' to the M4 rivnuts, this went very smoothly.
Note from today: the clutch line bleeding port is a B to get to! Others had mentioned it, but wow that is a pain. Fuse box had to come out to get to a look at the port. It's 9mm, if you have a short wrench you'll need it.
No photos from today's defeat.... We're just a few items away from running a small, around the blocks test drive. SOOOO CLOSE!!!
Items to complete:
Shifter Mechanism
Clutch Master Cylinder
Bleed Brakes
E-Brake Cables
Install Side Panels
Install Hood and Windshield
Ride Height
Alignment
Issues to deal with:
Motive Top Cap - Ordered, arrives 9/07
e-Brake Cables (arrived TBD)
Shifter Mechanism (arrives TBD)
Clutch Master Cylinder (arrives 9/12)
Last edited:
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
- Robinjo Goblin Guru
Thanks, I like spreadsheets and all. The only one I quit counting on was the cost to build.... We blew the budget out and I don't even want to know the total anymore. But for the Time to Build, I was just curious. If I did a version 2, it'd likely be at least 10-20 hours faster. So many things that I did, and re-did or goofed off with trying to make work. Like the clutch line clip on the trans or the seats, just time wasted trying to figure it out.....
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
- Robinjo Goblin Guru
Day 42 9/11/2022 - Patriot's Day
Hours Worked: 1.0
Total Hours: 117.5
(Assembly Hours: 56.5)
First and foremost, I want to take a moment to remember those lost from 9/11. This was the first time I had experienced anything of this magnitude. I wasn't alive for the JFK or MLK assassinations', those "I remember where I was' moments. I remember this all clearly as it was yesterday. To those that had some sort of dealing, whether it was clean up, going to war for US all or anything else to do with the effort, I want to say thank you. This day hits me more than the others, barring Memorial Day.
To those lost, civilian, Fire Department, Police, EMT or anyone else; I still remember.
Today my son and I installed the side panels, the wheels and sat the beast on the ground. I also mounted the windshield mount to the hood/body (whatever it's called) and checked the ride height. We installed the side panels with M4 bolts, lock washers and plastic washers. As mentioned before, we want to be able to pull the panels to change things out as we desire.
Items to complete:
Shifter Mechanism
Clutch Master Cylinder
Bleed Brakes/Clutch
E-Brake Cables
Install Side Panels
Install Hood and Windshield
Ride Height
Alignment
Issues to deal with:
Coolant Pump Issue - On it's way, arrives 9/08
Motive Top Cap - Ordered, arrives 9/07
e-Brake Cables (arrived TBD)
Shifter Mechanism (arrives TBD)
Clutch Master Cylinder (arrives 9/12)
Hours Worked: 1.0
Total Hours: 117.5
(Assembly Hours: 56.5)
First and foremost, I want to take a moment to remember those lost from 9/11. This was the first time I had experienced anything of this magnitude. I wasn't alive for the JFK or MLK assassinations', those "I remember where I was' moments. I remember this all clearly as it was yesterday. To those that had some sort of dealing, whether it was clean up, going to war for US all or anything else to do with the effort, I want to say thank you. This day hits me more than the others, barring Memorial Day.
To those lost, civilian, Fire Department, Police, EMT or anyone else; I still remember.
Today my son and I installed the side panels, the wheels and sat the beast on the ground. I also mounted the windshield mount to the hood/body (whatever it's called) and checked the ride height. We installed the side panels with M4 bolts, lock washers and plastic washers. As mentioned before, we want to be able to pull the panels to change things out as we desire.
Items to complete:
Shifter Mechanism
Clutch Master Cylinder
Bleed Brakes/Clutch
E-Brake Cables
Install Hood and Windshield
Alignment
Issues to deal with:
Motive Top Cap - Ordered, arrives 9/07
e-Brake Cables (arrived TBD)
Shifter Mechanism (arrives TBD)
Clutch Master Cylinder (arrives 9/12)
Last edited:
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
- Robinjo Goblin Guru
Day 43 9/12/2022
Hours Worked: 1.5
Total Hours: 119.0
(Assembly Hours: 58.0)
I got the new clutch master cylinder installed, lines bled and fuse box put back in. The new unit seems more well made, the main body is metal as opposed to plastic on the old unit. I kept the white clip from the rod to the pedal, just in case someone needs it later on. We'd have put on the hood and windshield but my kid had way to much homework. Maybe tomorrow night..... Just waiting on a package from DF Kit Car and Rock Auto to finish the remaining items.
Items to complete:
Shifter Mechanism
Clutch Master Cylinder
Bleed Brakes/Clutch
E-Brake Cables
Install Hood and Windshield
Alignment
Issues to deal with:
e-Brake Cables (arrives 9/14)
Shifter Mechanism (arrives TBD)
Clutch Master Cylinder (arrives 9/12)
Hours Worked: 1.5
Total Hours: 119.0
(Assembly Hours: 58.0)
I got the new clutch master cylinder installed, lines bled and fuse box put back in. The new unit seems more well made, the main body is metal as opposed to plastic on the old unit. I kept the white clip from the rod to the pedal, just in case someone needs it later on. We'd have put on the hood and windshield but my kid had way to much homework. Maybe tomorrow night..... Just waiting on a package from DF Kit Car and Rock Auto to finish the remaining items.
Items to complete:
Shifter Mechanism
Bleed Brakes/Clutch
E-Brake Cables
Install Hood and Windshield
Alignment
Issues to deal with:
e-Brake Cables (arrives 9/14)
Shifter Mechanism (arrives TBD)
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
- Robinjo Goblin Guru
Day 44 9/15/2022
Hours Worked: 1.5
Total Hours: 120.5
(Assembly Hours: 59.5)
Installed the new LED Headlight bulb replacements, steering wheel cancel tab and shift mechanism. I couldn't get the nuts to thread on the 3rd set of shift lever (stock setup). Apparently they are reverse thread. After learning that, it all went together with no issue.
Shift Rod
dfkitcar.com
LED Headlights
Beamtech H4 LED Headlight Bulbs, 50W 6500K 8000Lumens - Extremely Bright 9003 Hi/Lo
Going to take the vehicle for a test drive in the morning, hopefully it goes well!
Items to complete:
Shifter Mechanism
E-Brake Cables
Install Hood and Windshield
Alignment
Issues to deal with:
e-Brake Cables (still wrong)
Shifter Mechanism (arrives TBD)
Hours Worked: 1.5
Total Hours: 120.5
(Assembly Hours: 59.5)
Installed the new LED Headlight bulb replacements, steering wheel cancel tab and shift mechanism. I couldn't get the nuts to thread on the 3rd set of shift lever (stock setup). Apparently they are reverse thread. After learning that, it all went together with no issue.
Shift Rod
Shift Rod Issues
I’m on my third set of the pictured rods. One end threads with no issue, the other end won’t start for anything. Is there something I’m missing?
LED Headlights
BEAMTECH H4 LED Headlight Bulb, 50W 6500K 8000Lumens Extremely Brigh 9003 Hi/Lo 602105073202 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for BEAMTECH H4 LED Headlight Bulb, 50W 6500K 8000Lumens Extremely Brigh 9003 Hi/Lo at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
Going to take the vehicle for a test drive in the morning, hopefully it goes well!
Items to complete:
E-Brake Cables
Install Hood and Windshield
Alignment
Issues to deal with:
e-Brake Cables (still wrong)
Last edited:
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
- Robinjo Goblin Guru
Day 45 9/16/2022
No working hours:
Total Hours: 120.5
(Assembly Hours: 59.5)
Well, took the vehicle for a very short drive, maybe 0.01 miles and the car pulled power. The clutch is very heavy, and will not select gears when running. I can select gears without the car running, however. I think the throw-out bearing unit is done, even thought it was supposedly just recently changed. Also pulled a list of codes while it was down on power. I can restart the vehicle and it idles fine. I'm open to suggestions on either front:
I think the main culprit is the MAF sensor, but not sure if it's causing all the other issues too?
Codes: (Other than Evap and O2 Codes)
P00D9 - No information from scanner. Internet lists Fuel Pressure Relief valve?
P3F00 - No information from scanner. Internet doesn't list this code either
P2228 - Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor
P0068 - Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor/Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor - Throttle Position Correlation
P1101 - MAF Sensor Out of Range/Performance Problem
C1000 - No information from scanner. Internet lists ABS module issue
C1206 - No information from scanner. Internet lists No front wheel speed sensor
C0904 - Ignition Switch Power Relay #1 Circuit Range/Performance Problem
C1F04 - No information from scanner
P0121 - Throttle Position Switch A/ Accelerator Pedal Position Switch A - Range/Performance Problem
C287D - No information from scanner. Internet doesn't list this code either
C2A04 - No information from scanner. Internet lists Timing high Reference Resolution Signal A too many pulses?
Items to complete:
Shifter Mechanism
E-Brake Cables
Install Hood and Windshield
Alignment
Issues to deal with:
e-Brake Cables (still wrong)
Clutch/Gear Selecting issue when running
Car Pulled power
No working hours:
Total Hours: 120.5
(Assembly Hours: 59.5)
Well, took the vehicle for a very short drive, maybe 0.01 miles and the car pulled power. The clutch is very heavy, and will not select gears when running. I can select gears without the car running, however. I think the throw-out bearing unit is done, even thought it was supposedly just recently changed. Also pulled a list of codes while it was down on power. I can restart the vehicle and it idles fine. I'm open to suggestions on either front:
I think the main culprit is the MAF sensor, but not sure if it's causing all the other issues too?
Codes: (Other than Evap and O2 Codes)
P00D9 - No information from scanner. Internet lists Fuel Pressure Relief valve?
P3F00 - No information from scanner. Internet doesn't list this code either
P2228 - Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor
P0068 - Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor/Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor - Throttle Position Correlation
P1101 - MAF Sensor Out of Range/Performance Problem
C0904 - Ignition Switch Power Relay #1 Circuit Range/Performance Problem
C1F04 - No information from scanner
P0121 - Throttle Position Switch A/ Accelerator Pedal Position Switch A - Range/Performance Problem
C287D - No information from scanner. Internet doesn't list this code either
C2A04 - No information from scanner. Internet lists Timing high Reference Resolution Signal A too many pulses?
Items to complete:
E-Brake Cables
Install Hood and Windshield
Alignment
Issues to deal with:
e-Brake Cables (still wrong)
Clutch/Gear Selecting issue when running
Car Pulled power
Rauq
Goblin Guru
- Rauq Goblin Guru
MAF, MAP, TAC/APP all share a low reference. I'd guess you'd see more issues than that if you had a bad ground, but grounds are always worth a check. If you have HP Tuners, can you watch sensor values as it idles? Also, any chance your MAF is backwards?
On the trans issues, if the engine is off and the trans is in gear, and you press the clutch pedal, will the car roll as if it's in neutral? If not, that would generally confirm your slave cylinder issue.
- Gtstorey Goblin Guru
Start with alldata and confirm your code descriptions. My listings for the later model has completely different problems for several of the p codes.
I also don’t think that GM uses anything other than 4 digit numerical or 3 digit numerical followed by a single letter,(not counting the first letter for the module triggering the code) so I’m not sure if the other codes are legitimate dtc’s.
alldata should have diagnostic steps for each legitimate control, at least the hard copy oem service manual does.
I also don’t think that GM uses anything other than 4 digit numerical or 3 digit numerical followed by a single letter,(not counting the first letter for the module triggering the code) so I’m not sure if the other codes are legitimate dtc’s.
alldata should have diagnostic steps for each legitimate control, at least the hard copy oem service manual does.
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
- Robinjo Goblin Guru
Yes, bled it three separate times. The fact it’s really, really stiff at the pedal had me concerned right after bleeding. The pedal feels like nothing is moving on the trans side. I was already concerned about the throw out bearing before the test drive.
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