V1 Nukers City Goblin - 2009 SS/TC number 2 build

[TheNuker]

I have a stock ecu for an lnf. It has a bad baro sensor. I can send it to you. I’d rather see you fry it than a new one or zoom zooms

That would be awesome! Let me know what shipping is and i'll send you money + Send back when done!

Nuker-

 

[SmsDetroit]

That would be awesome! Let me know what shipping is and i'll send you money + Send back when done!

Nuker-

Send my your information

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

This community is the greatest!!

 

[SmsDetroit]

That would be awesome! Let me know what shipping is and i'll send you money + Send back when done!

Nuker-

Did you send it. I was going to run out now

 

[TheNuker]

Did you send it. I was going to run out now

Just sent sorry was in a dang meeting, Thanks and tell me what I owe you.

Nuker-

 

[SmsDetroit]

Just sent sorry was in a dang meeting, Thanks and tell me what I owe you.

Nuker-

Sent you the tracking number. Should be there Tuesday

 

[TheNuker]

Sent you the tracking number. Should be there Tuesday

Thank you so much!

I had an interesting idea, What do you guys think will happen if I stick my data wire toner on the purple signal wire on that #1 coilpack , What I'm wondering is will that tone through the ECU or will that stop it? Another idea I had was to stick the toner broadcaster onto a ground lug, then see if I get tone on any of the pins in the big plug that plugs into the ECU etc... Or any other pins for that matter, telling me maybe that xxxx circuit is shorted to ground somewhere.


Nuker-

 

[Gtstorey]

Your dtc is telling you that you have a short to voltage. Have you checked the voltage to either of the signal wires?

 

[TheNuker]

Your dtc is telling you that you have a short to voltage. Have you checked the voltage to either of the signal wires?

Yeah “most” of the time it’s fine just mili volts , when it has the coil pack burn out it’s around 9-11v the problem is it’s not always having the issue it seems to be random times and that’s when it kills the coil.

Nuker-

 

[Gtstorey]

Assuming the other coils have the same mili-volt reading you either have a bad spot in the wire allowing battery voltage to contact the signal wire or something in the ecu. I would still run new wires to the coil to eliminate that as a possible. 4 wires ran a couple of feet and see if it eliminates the dtc.

 

[TheNuker]

Assuming the other coils have the same mili-volt reading you either have a bad spot in the wire allowing battery voltage to contact the signal wire or something in the ecu. I would still run new wires to the coil to eliminate that as a possible. 4 wires ran a couple of feet and see if it eliminates the dtc.

That's not a bad idea, I could splice the wiring from my original engine harness in and try that as part of the testing too.

Nuker-

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

That's not a bad idea, I could splice the wiring from my original engine harness in and try that as part of the testing too.

Nuker-

Could also be the connectors where you're splicing into. Electrical gremlins are very devious creatures and do a good job of hiding. Another thing to look for is corrosion in connectors on the pins or even in the ECM or BCM. Gremlins love oxidized parts to hide in.

 

[TheNuker]

Could also be the connectors where you're splicing into. Electrical gremlins are very devious creatures and do a good job of hiding. Another thing to look for is corrosion in connectors on the pins or even in the ECM or BCM. Gremlins love oxidized parts to hide in.

Yeah, I will check the ECU again, but it looked really clean. The whole engine harness and fuse box is brand new, I would HOPE there is no corrosion in there hahah.

Nuker-

 

[Brian74]

Nuker, send me a thorough summary of the issue, and everything you’ve done, tried & replaced. I am personal friends with the absolute best automotive electrical diagnostic guy in my entire city. He specializes in GM and he has seen everything. I meet up with him relatively frequently. I can bounce it off of him and see what he thinks.

 

[TheNuker]

Nuker, send me a thorough summary of the issue, and everything you’ve done, tried & replaced. I am personal friends with the absolute best automotive electrical diagnostic guy in my entire city. He specializes in GM and he has seen everything. I meet up with him relatively frequently. I can bounce it off of him and see what he thinks.

I'll write that up tomorrow thank you!


Drove about 20 miles tonight with the serp belt removed. Battery was still at 12.74v when I got home. Going to keep going in this setup until it fails (or doesn't) and see where we get to.

Nuker-

 

[TheNuker]

Also registration is done, I'm legal! wooooot

Nuker-

 

[TheNuker]

Good news after replacing the 2 rear caliper piston seals, re bleeding all of the brakes are solid! Also drove around another 30 miles tonight after charging the battery up and with the serp belt removed and still no further issues.

I think maybe after 5000 miles i'll stop bringing a spare coilpack and a pocket of fuses with me LMAO

Nuker-

 

[r3drckt]

So when are you going to call it that the alternator is bad? You have roughly 50-60 miles so far without the alternator and haven’t blown anything yet. IIRC, you would’ve had the issue by now with a bad coil pack.

 

[ctuinstra]

To be on the safe side, I would get a new alternator and do a scan an log the voltage just to make sure.

 

[r3drckt]

To be on the safe side, I would get a new alternator and do a scan an log the voltage just to make sure.

Gotta be the cheaper option than buying new coil packs every time one pops