V1 AleX1/9's City Goblin - 07 SS/SC donor - Chassis #18 - WA registered

[Briann1177]

I've got a dumb question on your fuel filter picture. I'm assuming fuel comes in through one of those nylon lines and goes to the fuel rail via the stainless braided. What is the second nylon line used for?

My fuel pump only has one nylon hose coming out.

 

[Karter2026]

I've got a dumb question on your fuel filter picture. I'm assuming fuel comes in through one of those nylon lines and goes to the fuel rail via the stainless braided. What is the second nylon line used for?

My fuel pump only has one nylon hose coming out.

I believe that the pump you have is from a PZEV car. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1151176&cc=1442864&jsn=578 You will need a pump and pigtail for a non PZEV . http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4628700&cc=1433735&jsn=464 . At least that is what I understand

 

[Briann1177]

Mine looks like the second one, but with just one hose coming out of the top.

I'll stop junking up Alex's thread and post another one.

 

[AleX1/9]

Well at long last, stage 2 components have arrived. I'm back to mock clean paint prep paint sand wire wheel grind prime paint brake cleaner wire brush sand prime paint paper towels prep solvent prime paint......... you guys get the idea

While cleaning and painting, I found the left side hub carrier is cracked through from the collision! found a replacement for $40 shipped on ebay with hub/bearing assembly **** I love how cheap these cobalt parts are!

 

[Waterdriver]

Looks like an early Christmas morning with opened presents!

Glad to see you caught that crack on the carrier. That would not be a fun failure at any speed.
That prompts me to go over mine carefully as well.

On your exhaust, what is the I.D. ?

 

[AleX1/9]

On your exhaust, what is the I.D. ?

I always thought the 3" looked goofy and asked Adam if 2.5" was a possibility, luckily they already had plans for 2.5" as the standard issue on SS/SC kits. I got the first one!

 

[Waterdriver]

Yeah I was thinking 3" diameter is a little overkill for a 2 liter engine.
We ran a full length 3" diameter exhaust from the turbo back on a small block chevy.

 

[Silverback]

For a turbo, zero backpressure is ideal, the bigger the better. Non-turbo engines need some backpressure for efficient exhaust scavenging.

From "Street Turbocharging" by Mark Warner:

BTW, The stock LNF K04 turbo exhaust flange ID is 3.5" The exducer is almost 3/4"

 

[JSATX]

For a turbo, zero backpressure is ideal, the bigger the better. Non-turbo engines need some backpressure for efficient exhaust scavenging.

From "Street Turbocharging" by Mark Warner:
View attachment 2400
BTW, The stock LNF K04 turbo exhaust flange ID is 3.5" The exducer is close to 3/4"

Corky bell’s book recommends a minimum of 8” of pipe after the 02. That’s what I’m struggling with on my setup.

 

[Silverback]

I'm ditching the stock O2 housing and going straight off the 3.5" turbo exhaust and will add a saddle O2 bung a few inches past the flange, before a cat (if required.) There will be a 90 or 180 degree bend and a straight through Jones Turbine muffler beyond that.

 

[AleX1/9]

Assembled some front suspension today. Also switched the dolly out for jackstands, in anticipation of this thing being on it's wheels soon.

I really like the machined spindles and tie rod arms.

I ended up using some Eibach 8"300lb/in springs I had from another project after painting silver. The ones supplied with the kit are QA1 9"300lb/in so I'll be using those in the back because of the added length.

The pass side in progress

It's worth noting there was lots of powdercoat interference with the rod end bolts through the sleeves. I ended up reaming the holes out with a large drill bit before assembly. Before I realized this, I spun the first one down with the impact and ended up buggering the threads on one of the bolts.

Stay tuned for the rears

 

[Briann1177]

Looks good.

 

[KJP]

Do you have some close ups of the fog light brackets? Those look awesome did you cnc them?

 

[ctuinstra]

Where did you get the headlights?

 

[ctuinstra]

Isn't the lower bracket for the lower ball joint on backwards? I thought Lonny noticed that on someone's post and commented about it.

 

[Briann1177]

It appears to be correct. The top goes towards the outside and bottom towards the inside.

http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php...me-with-lower-entry-bars.157/page-6#post-5959

 

[PHerder]

It appears to be correct. The top goes towards the outside and bottom towards the inside.

http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php...me-with-lower-entry-bars.157/page-6#post-5959

Interesting... Adam must have edit that post after I had read it since I don't remember seeing that picture!

Looks like I will be disassembling the front control arms, oh yet again, to correct the assembly!

 

[ctuinstra]

I was wrong. I was thinking the photo in Adam's post was referring to one that was wrong, but actually he was showing the correct way. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[PHerder]

I was wrong. I was thinking the photo in Adam's post was referring to one that was wrong, but actually he was showing the correct way. Sorry for the confusion.

I have since changed mine to reflect what Adam posted and the camber is MUCH closer to being right now. Before, with the bottom upright mount the wrong way around, the camber was extremely negative!

YMMV.

 

[AleX1/9]

Do you have some close ups of the fog light brackets? Those look awesome did you cnc them?

Thanks man! The other two lights aren't fogs just the parking/turn lights with amber LED's.

I wish I was fancy CNC'ing or 3d printing parts! HA! These are just made with some 3/4" flat steel, a crappy welder, and some grinding and painting. 3 separate pieces each side:

The headlight mounting bolt goes right through it securing it at the top. Used a stainless self tapping screw into the strut tower for the bottom fastener: