V1 LeoZug's Montana Street Goblin - '05 Cobalt SS donor

[Gtstorey]

I think he’s talking about external lines not the internal ones. If they are internal, then yes, must be submersible and capable of holding over 60psi. If external, then it just needs to be fuel injection hose capable of over 60psi. I used Gates 4219BF 3/8” hose.

4219BF Barricade™ GreenShield™ Fuel Hose | Gates Corporation

Before you start your engines, equip them with Gates fuel hoses. We’ve engineered our fuel line hoses at the cutting-edge of fuel-efficient, environmentally-safe design, so your engine will perform with superior power.

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After rereading you are correct . When he said filter, my mind went to the sock on the later models. Still need to be careful with fuel line from ace hardware, since it might not be rated for fuel injection pressures, only carburetor pressure.

 

[Rttoys]

. Still need to be careful with fuel line from ace hardware, since it might not be rated for fuel injection pressures, only carburetor pressure.

no doubt there. All I can think of at my ace is carb/lawn mower fuel line at best. Most auto parts will have fuel injection hose, just gotta make sure it can hold high enough pressure.

 

[ah.b.normal]

All fuel line should have it's rating specs printed on it and a part number that one can usually google for all the info for that specific materiel. Hose makers have become very deliberate on making their name/specs obvious and easy to prove liability(or non-liability). Over rated hose capability is not usually a problem for fuel systems, only for your wallet.

 

[Leo Zugner]

Switching the two wires isn't going to fix it. Chevy changed the fuel sender between 2005 Cobalts and 2006.
Are you running a 2006 fuel sensor & pump in a 2005 donor car? You might want to grab your old 2005 sensor, and install it, or buy a universal fuel sender with the correct resistance and length. The stock Cobalt sensor doesn't work perfectly in the Goblin tank.

OK bummer. Yeah I have a 2006 fuel pump assembly in a 2005 donor. I can just read the gauge backwards.

I think he’s talking about external lines not the internal ones. If they are internal, then yes, must be submersible and capable of holding over 60psi. If external, then it just needs to be fuel injection hose capable of over 60psi. I used Gates 4219BF 3/8” hose.

I've used some of this ACE tube in another spot and it seems ok. I'll keep an eye on it.

 

[Leo Zugner]

I've got a pretty soft brake pedal feel and a friend said I probably need to bleed my master cylinder. I've been looking online about how to do it and most of them say to do a bench bleed. Is there a way to bleed my master while still on the car?

 

[Ross]

You can bleed the whole system while on the car. Brake fluid is cheap. Start by checking for leaks, fix those.
Have a helper pump up the brake pedal, bleed at the rear right caliper until the new fluid comes out, then move to the rear left, then the front calipers.

 

[Leo Zugner]

ok cool. We did that and I bought a little hand pump to make it a little easier. I'll keep doing it the normal way and see if it changes anything.

 

[Rauq]

In my opinion, a pressure bleeder is by far the easiest way to bleed all the hydraulics in a Goblin. Pedal pumping is still required to finish the clutch, but remains useful even there.

 

[Ross]

You can also try tipping the master brake cylinder different directions to control the way the air bubbles go.
Either park on a hill, or jack up a wheel while you are bleeding the brakes.

 

[Leo Zugner]

Ah. Good idea. I'll try that.

 

[Robinjo]

In my opinion, a pressure bleeder is by far the easiest way to bleed all the hydraulics in a Goblin. Pedal pumping is still required to finish the clutch, but remains useful even there.

Exactly this. It's a one-person job to bleed the brakes.

 

[Leo Zugner]

So the other day, I took the car out for a drive and all seemed perfect. I came home for about an hour and went back out but it felt like had lost power steering. The steering just felt heavy. Before I start taking off all the body panels, are there any obvious places to start checking for problems?

 

[Markm]

So the other day, I took the car out for a drive and all seemed perfect. I came home for about an hour and went back out but it felt like had lost power steering. The steering just felt heavy. Before I start taking off all the body panels, are there any obvious places to start checking for problems?

Check for stored dtcs in pscm

 

[jirwin]

Agree with @Markm. From what I've seen on here usually when these things have power steering issues they tend to throw all sorts of codes and nonsense because the power steering system is hooked into the GMLan/Canbus/whatever. Would be surprised if you lost power steering with zero other issues

 

[Ross]

I have killed 3 or 4 power steering modules by either driving in the rain, or towing the goblin thru the rain. It doesn't like getting wet.
So the current one is sealed using HVAC aluminum tape, and silicone sealant.

 

[Leo Zugner]

Hmmm. OK. I have definitely not got it wet so I don't think that's it. I'll check what codes I have and start there.

 

[Gtstorey]

Hmmm. OK. I have definitely not got it wet so I don't think that's it. I'll check what codes I have and start there.

You will need more than a basic code reader that only reads P (powertrain)-codes.

 

[Leo Zugner]

ok. I'll see what I can find. Thanks.

 

[Rttoys]

I would unplug and plug back in the ps connector and such. Probably a loose connection somewhere.

 

[Leo Zugner]

I would unplug and plug back in the ps connector and such. Probably a loose connection somewhere.

Cool. I'll try that. Thanks.