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V1 Neodied's #375 Extended Track - 07 SS/SC donor

SmsDetroit
neodied said:
At this point I think I'm about 60% done with Stage 1. My remaining tasks before attempting to start the engine:
- Reattach clutch (alignment tool should arrive tomorrow)
- Mate engine and trans
- Reattach engine coolant hoses (verify layout for ZZP Dual Pass plumbing)
- Reattach engine wiring harness (labeled all connectors and fixed up the tape, need to fix a janky splice job once I verify how much slack I have after installation)
- Battery hold down straps
- Mount powertrain to chassis
- Shifter cables
- Fuse box
- More coolant hoses and overflow tank
- Fuel filter & lines
- Fluids (coolant, oil, intercooler, trans fluid)

Parts that I can't find or grew legs and hopped into the trash can on their own:
- Horn mount bracket
- OEM rubber brake booster vacuum hose

Based on my pace so far, I ordered the Stage 2 package so hopefully it'll arrive soon after I get the engine firing up!

Sadly, I don't think I will make it to street legal status before Woodward Dream Cruise :(. Unless I get really lucky with the shipping time on Stage 2 and my engine not having any issues (unlikely...)
Click to expand...
Keep plugging away. If you need any help let me know. You are also more than welcome to ride with me.
 
neodied
Got the engine and trans mated, engine harness plugged back in, and powertrain attached to the chassis! It feels so good to have the powertrain not sitting on the dolly anymore.

Update to my prior checklist before attempting to start the engine:
- Engine coolant hoses and overflow tank + intercooler plumbing (verify layout for ZZP Dual Pass)
- Fix 2 janky prior owner splices on engine harness
- Attach front & rear transmission mounts + subframe
- Fuse box
- Fuel filter & lines
- Bunch of electrical connections
- Fluids (coolant, oil, intercooler, trans fluid)
- Torque powertrain mounts and subframe
- Battery hold downs

Parts that I must have accidentally thrown away or have run away from me into a corner of the garage or under something else:
- Horn mount bracket
- 1x trans bell housing bolt
 
Last edited:
neodied
It has been quite a long time since the last update. The excuses list is long and ultimately irrelevant.

But many thanks to @SmsDetroit who came over to my house and helped me work through nearly all of the remaining Stage 1 content, I have a little something to show:

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.
youtube.com youtube.com
She runs!

There was one head scratcher no-crank issue we encountered that resulted from procrastinating on fixing a previous-owner janky splice which intercepted the starter relay's signal to the starter (we think an aftermarket kill switch). Once that was soldered back together, it didn't take more than a couple cranks to get it fired up!

I feel optimistic that Woodward Dream Cruise will see a new Goblin this year :)

New to-do list:
  • Fill trans with new fluid (couldn't find the F35 recommended spec in brick-and-mortar stores, so ordered this on Amazon: https://a.co/d/0U8PFK4)
  • Purge the air from the engine coolant
  • Install brakes
  • Install brake reservoir
  • Seats
  • Bleed brakes
  • Tighten suspension
  • Install, plumb, purge intercooler radiator
  • Install intake & MAF
  • Connect shifter cables and cap the tunnel
 
Last edited:
neodied
Tons of progress last weekend with smsdetroit:
- Brakes and clutch bled
- Shifter cables connected
- Intercooler loop filled (though the pump doesn't seem to be powered, gotta check that out)
- Seats temporarily installed
- Center tunnel capped off
- Wrecked outer tie rods replaced

All I need for a 'round the block trip is steering and finalizing the seats. I seem to be missing some part of the "normal" steering wheel assembly but I decided to order the quick release wheel and connector anyway with Stage 3. I am a big fan of the dual overhead frame bars which helped me getting in and out, and adding the detachable wheel will help even more.

I am a 6'3" dude and felt strangely small but also huge sitting in the seat. I had to move the buckets all the way forward on the stock seat brackets just to get close to my preferred leg position, and I feel like it would be even better a bit more forward. But then my head had maybe 1" clearance from the top of the frame, no way it would pass a broom test with a racing helmet...

Once I get the seats fully mounted and do a few shakedown runs I may want to move it more forward and lower if possible. Lower will be tough because it looks like there are mounting point bumps on the bottom of the seat that are nearly touching the floor already.

Final note is that the height of the harness shoulder belt cutouts appear to be several inches higher than the frame behind the seat. I think the cutouts are supposed to be in line or slightly higher than the harness mount point. I remember messaging DF support before ordering, and asked about that positioning and was told it would work. Not sure what to do about that, I really really don't want to scrape off powdercoat and weld another bar in at the correct height.

New To-Do List:
- Intercooler fan power
- Intercooler pump power (might just be inline with the fan)
- Finish seat mounting in outboard orientation
- Quick release steering wheel
- Connect valve cover breather to intake
- Hood
- DRIVE IT???
 
Last edited:
ATMironov
neodied said:
Tons of progress last weekend with smsdetroit:
- Brakes and clutch bled
- Shifter cables connected
- Intercooler loop filled (though the pump doesn't seem to be powered, gotta check that out)
- Seats temporarily installed
- Center tunnel capped off
- Wrecked outer tie rods replaced

All I need for a 'round the block trip is steering and finalizing the seats. I seem to be missing some part of the "normal" steering wheel assembly but I decided to order the quick release wheel and connector anyway with Stage 3. I am a big fan of the dual overhead frame bars which helped me getting in and out, and adding the detachable wheel will help even more.

I am a 6'3" dude and felt strangely small but also huge sitting in the seat. I had to move the buckets all the way forward on the stock seat brackets just to get close to my preferred leg position, and I feel like it would be even better a bit more forward. But then my head had maybe 1" clearance from the top of the frame, no way it would pass a broom test with a racing helmet...

Once I get the seats fully mounted and do a few shakedown runs I may want to move it more forward and lower if possible. Lower will be tough because it looks like there are mounting point bumps on the bottom of the seat that are nearly touching the floor already.

Final note is that the height of the harness shoulder belt cutouts appear to be several inches higher than the frame behind the seat. I think the cutouts are supposed to be in line or slightly higher than the harness mount point. I remember messaging DF support before ordering, and asked about that positioning and was told it would work. Not sure what to do about that, I really really don't want to scrape off powdercoat and weld another bar in at the correct height.

New To-Do List:
- Intercooler fan power
- Intercooler pump power (might just be inline with the fan)
- Finish seat mounting in outboard orientation
- Quick release steering wheel
- Connect valve cover breather to intake
- Hood
- DRIVE IT???
Click to expand...


I had the same problem. Harness bar is too low. It should be just below the opening in the seat back.
I'm 6'1" and wouldn't pass the broomstick test, so I welded a raised X Brace.

IMG_9267.jpg
 
Mahkoi
I made a bolt in bar from some scraps that were hanging out in the garage. Same idea as the one above but a little different.
20220821_142535.jpg
 
Ross
My driver's seat has a 3 point and a 5 point in it, so I don't have to mount the 5 point harness when racing. The passenger side only has a 5 point harness.
 
Mahkoi
I'd have to double check but I may have enough pipe for a second bar if you're interested. Its pretty ugly looking but a flap disk and a rattle can make it presentable. No idea what it's original purpose was but the previous owner of my house left all his scrap steel in the garage so I'm fine donating it to another Goblin. It's some pretty thick walled stuff. I just held it in place. Used the eyeball method to draw some lines on it at the angle I should cut it then welded on some 1/4in flat stock (also left by the previous owner). Couple of holes and a hardware store run for grade 8 hardware and it was good to go.
 
neodied
Yesterday I drove around the block! (In Mexico of course, since it's not registered or even close to road legal)

I got tired of waiting for Stage 3 with my quick release steering wheel so I cobbled together hardware to mount the stock wheel to the spline adapter. It's hard to get in and out with it, but not long-term so fine for now.

To-Do before Stage 3 gets here
- Brakes were pretty soft so bleed them again
- Surging on throttle, maybe MAF calibration needs adjusting -> ECM tune?
- Wire up the heat exchanger fan
- Mount the parking brake cables
- Wire the headlights in

But holy bananas it was so exciting
 
Last edited:
neodied
After the drive I noticed that one of the donor tires had a leak and given how old the rubber was, just decided to order new tires and wheels since I wanted wider rubber. Also got adapter plates to change the bolt pattern to 5x114.3 and provide some spacing to accommodate the wider package. Chose the R888R tires to buy once, cry once and get excellent traction to keep me out of spins as much as possible.

Front Wheels: Konig Hypergram 17x8 +45 5x114.3
Rear Wheels: Konig Hypergram 17x9 +40 5x114.3
Adapter plates: 25mm thick, 5x110 -> 5x114.3

Front Tires: Toyo Proxes R888R 245/40R17
Rear Tires: Toyo Proxes R888R 275/40R17
 
Last edited:
J
Mahkoi said:
I'd have to double check but I may have enough pipe for a second bar if you're interested. Its pretty ugly looking but a flap disk and a rattle can make it presentable. No idea what it's original purpose was but the previous owner of my house left all his scrap steel in the garage so I'm fine donating it to another Goblin. It's some pretty thick walled stuff. I just held it in place. Used the eyeball method to draw some lines on it at the angle I should cut it then welded on some 1/4in flat stock (also left by the previous owner). Couple of holes and a hardware store run for grade 8 hardware and it was good to go.
Click to expand...


If he doesn't want it, I'd be interested in it. Would it come welded and "ready to install"? (I'll provide bolt hardware of course)
 
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