V1 Neodied's #375 Extended Track - 07 SS/SC donor

[neodied]

Main body wiring harness connector tagging complete! (excluding a couple two wire connectors that I can't find in the service docs for some reason). I made a spreadsheet with pins, housing & wire color of all the connectors for my year and options, then went one by one down the bundle and looked up in my sheet how many pins and which wire colors to get the right connector.

Tedious for sure, but I feel like I really know the layout of the harness much better now.

 

[Ross]

Nicely done.
Would that spreadsheet be shareable for the rest of us goblin builders?

 

[neodied]

Nicely done.
Would that spreadsheet be shareable for the rest of us goblin builders?

I would love to, but for now it's surprisingly specific to my exact car (there are a LOT of RPOs that impact which pins are populated or which color the wires are). So it would be of limited use to anyone else until I add the other RPOs in. Also, I noticed at least a handful of cases where the service doc said the wire should be something and it wasn't. A supposed-to-be Red/Black was actually Solid Red, or similar.

I'm thinking that when I have time to make this publicly available I'll tag each connector permutation with the engine/RPO and make it filterable so anyone with an '07 could use it by deselecting options they don't have. I don't foresee having the time to do this for other model years though.

 

[Joebob]

I used this to check my work. Obviously some differences between years and engine/tranny combos but a vast majority is valid.

V1 - BAR-AIR's build up in Buffalo N.Y.

Yes those are 5 3/4” lenses. Just make sure they are the DOT lenses. Those were advertised as DOT lenses but when they showed up no DOT markings. Took about a month of back and forth with the manufacturer before they sent a set of DOT lenses. Nate’s car is using a set of 5 3/4” headlight shells...

dfkitcar.com

Joe

 

[neodied]

Got most of the way through wiring video #4 yesterday, up to thinning unlabeled wires from the I/P connector. It was mildly annoying to unwrap some of the just-wrapped fuse block and ECM plug bundles because they had the thinned accessory power red/white and some of the thinned I/P wires. Overall, it looks so much more manageable now than when it was just the entire unwrapped harness on the table.

If I can keep up this pace, I may actually have it all done before my frame gets back from powder coating. Then I'll start on the parts prep (cleaning and spray painting the non-powder coated bits).

 

[neodied]

Wiring video #10 and part of #11 complete. Connecting and testing some grounds, taping up the rest of the bundles, and that should be it! (assuming nothing went wrong) I will be glad to have this process behind me, and if I had to build another Goblin I'd probably pay for the harness service.

Haven't heard back from the powder coat place yet, but I'm not rushing them since I still have to do the other parts clean & prep.

 

[neodied]

I have remedied a couple wiring mistakes that I thankfully caught before final harness taping:
1) soldered the OBD pin 2 green wire to the bundle of LS GMLAN wires (https://www.dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/you-guessed-it-an-electrical-issue.3192/)
2) previously mistakenly cut the PCM's dark green wire at C1 pin 16 (no idea why I did that), but left barely enough wire to solder on the extension and continuity to OBD pin 2 is good

One thing that I have not figured out yet is where the starter relay connector gets taped into the harness (see attached photo). I have both labelled yellow wires and an extension to connect them, but I didn't see (or maybe I missed) a spot in the videos where the yellow+pink wires to this connector get placed and taped up into the harness. Anyone else know where this gets taped in?

 

[Gtstorey]

Not sure what that is but don’t look like a relay to me. It looks like some sort of switch. Not something used on the turbo that I recognize.

 

[r3drckt]

That looks like it came from the clutch pedal. Starter relay would tell me it needs to be engaged for the starter to work, so it’s most likely the bottom switch on your clutch pedal. There should be 2 plugs on the clutch pedal

 

[neodied]

Not sure what that is but don’t look like a relay to me. It looks like some sort of switch. Not something used on the turbo that I recognize.

Thanks for that help, guys. You are both correct, it appears to be not a relay itself, but a starter relay control/enable switch. The GM Service Manual says B5 is:

Pin	Wire Color	Circuit No.	Function
B5​	YE​	575​	Starter Control​

I'll go back through the videos to find the clutch wire section.

 

[devianteng]

Just up from the grounds, I have 4 connectors. 2 are clutch pedal switches and other 2 are brake pedal switches. One of my clutch pedal switches are the same as yours I believe, and has to be depressed in order for the car to start. I have a 2007 SS/SC.

Hope this helps.

 

[neodied]

Frame is still at the powder coat shop, but he sent me a photo of the subframe in the final color and it looks great, probably even better in person I assume. I'm partly done with the preventative maintenance on the engine. It's really nice having it on an engine stand to work on. So far:
- Replaced timing chain tensioner
- Replaced timing chain guide bolt
- Replaced exhaust manifold (cracked at the collector merge point)
- Replaced spark plugs
- Upgraded intercooler pump
- Drained and removed intake manifold

Still to be done:
- Dual pass endplate
- Laminova core cleaning and o-ring replacement
- Rusty stud cleaning (vinegar bath)

Also I have red wire left over in my K22N baggy from the wiring kit. Uh oh. I went back through the wiring videos and Video #7 Step #10 shows an intercooler pump wire from the fuse box extended and taped up with a ground for turbo cars, so I don't need that one. But Video #11 Step #25 shows a heat exchanger fan wire extended and taped up with a ground wire near the BCM, and I think this is a problem.

I do not have a thin red wire coming from that junction, and I see that I taped up a ground with the thick light blue radiator fan wire, which is incorrect. Looks like I did exactly what Sluggonaut did here, but it sounds like he didn't need to fix the heat exchanger wire due to having NACA ducts which I do not. I also don't have any extra pink or red wires on the dash/BCM side of the harness, aside from the red/white wire that is mentioned in Video #11 Step #18.

Since the missing wire will be used for powering a fan, I am hesitant to splice into an existing thin red BCM wire which might not handle the current. Some people have mentioned installing relays that get triggered from a BCM wire, that may be what I have to do.

 

[neodied]

Got my frame back from the powdercoat shop a few days ago and I have this week off from work, so I hope to get a lot done! Attached all the floor panels pretty easily aside from getting adhesive all over the 1/4" strap bolts and my wrench and hands. Man, that stuff is tough to get off!

Unfortunately I think my center tunnel brake line might have the wrong size flare nut on the rear end. I'm going to try to find other things I can do that won't be a problem for removing and reinstalling that brake line assuming I have to modify it with a new nut and re-flare.

 

[neodied]

A local brake shop fixed the center tunnel line for free in less than a day! I'll definitely be going back there for any work I can't do myself.

Putting the TPMS box in, the whole plastic enclosure started cracking in my hands as I handled it. The retention tabs snapped off immediately, even the corners and edges of the box started to come apart. For now I duct taped it back together and zip tied it to the bulkhead. Maybe I will find a junkyard or eBay replacement, maybe it'll just be left there.

Connecting the BCM plugs, one of the blue and white connectors might be running into a very slightly bent pin because I cannot get it seated like the other one which goes in easily. None of the BCM male pins are visibly bent, and I don't see any obstructions in the connector female pins. I'm going to take a pick and try to align all the female pins as centered as I can and cross my fingers that solves it.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

My TPMS cover turned to dust when removed it from the donor - the base was still intact. I bought a small electronics 'hobby' box to install it into. I think this is the one I bought, but any one similar will work.

2.7" X 1.7" X 1.2" PROJECT BOX

2.7" x 1.7" x 1.2" H heavy-duty 3/32" molded plastic box with aluminum cover. Built in stand-offs for P.C. or perf boards. Each case has brushed aluminum cover and screws. Our solderable perf board, CAT# PC-1, fits this case.

www.allelectronics.com

 

[Rttoys]

I used the evap vent filter case and out the tpms guts inside. Not sure why, I’m not using tpms anyways.

 

[neodied]

My TPMS cover turned to dust when removed it from the donor

Yep, that just about describes it. I saw that it had cracked from my disassembly and so I was trying to be careful and it still just disintegrated. Some plastics just aren't meant for long term exposure...

Manually aligning the BCM connector side pins worked, I don't know why or how but it did.

Now attaching the harness ground lugs to the pedal box tube ground stud, and none of the lug holes are large enough to fit over the stud. Tried enlarging the hole on one lug with a drill bit, but when the drill bit caught it tore the lug out of my hand and off the harness wire. I can probably solder that wire onto its neighbor in the lug bundle but need to figure out a better solution for the remaining too-small lugs.

Edit: I think a manual reamer is what I need to enlarge the lug holes. Shouldn't be too tough.

 

[Mahkoi]

I ran into the same issue with the ground lugs. I grabbed them with channel locks and went at them with a drill bit. Had to tap a couple of them flat again with a hammer afterwards.

 

[neodied]

I ran into the same issue with the ground lugs. I grabbed them with channel locks and went at them with a drill bit. Had to tap a couple of them flat again with a hammer afterwards.

Yeah, after tearing one of them off accidentally I don't want to push my luck too far. I'll pick this reamer up at Harbor Freight and give it a go. Pretty sure this is a perfect use for it.


Edit: Reamer worked perfectly.

 

[neodied]

At this point I think I'm about 60% done with Stage 1. My remaining tasks before attempting to start the engine:
- Reattach clutch (alignment tool should arrive tomorrow)
- Mate engine and trans
- Reattach engine coolant hoses (verify layout for ZZP Dual Pass plumbing)
- Reattach engine wiring harness (labeled all connectors and fixed up the tape, need to fix a janky splice job once I verify how much slack I have after installation)
- Battery hold down straps
- Mount powertrain to chassis
- Shifter cables
- Fuse box
- More coolant hoses and overflow tank
- Fuel filter & lines
- Fluids (coolant, oil, intercooler, trans fluid)

Parts that I can't find or grew legs and hopped into the trash can on their own:
- Horn mount bracket
- OEM rubber brake booster vacuum hose

Based on my pace so far, I ordered the Stage 2 package so hopefully it'll arrive soon after I get the engine firing up!

Sadly, I don't think I will make it to street legal status before Woodward Dream Cruise . Unless I get really lucky with the shipping time on Stage 2 and my engine not having any issues (unlikely...)