V1 Nukers City Goblin - 2009 SS/TC number 2 build

[Zoom Zoom]

So after letting my Goblin sit in the garage for a week+ I noticed that inside the wheel there is a small pool collection of break fluid. It is NOT leaking out of the bango bolts im 97.3% sure of. 2 of the wheels had these pools. Not big but enough that I can wipe my finger through it.

I guess this is why I can't seem to get the **** breaks to bleed good. I pressure bled them 6 times tell no bubbles but they still feel like **** after 2-3 break cycles.

Any idea where this might be coming from? When I got them powder coated they got a little inside the lib where the seal goes. I sanded the powder coating off with 600grit very lightly and locked the seals+ lock rings back in what I thought was good. Could this be the route cause?

Nuker-

I had to change the seals on my right front

 

[Ross]

Maybe the bleeder bolt on the brake caliper is leaking?

 

[TheNuker]

Maybe the bleeder bolt on the brake caliper is leaking?

I can try to change the seals again, The clutch bleed is perfect so it has to be the brakes. I don't THINK the bleeder valve is leaking because I put some powder on there to see the drop lines and none from there. It really appears to be the piston seals? Could this put air back into the system? I'm going to take off one of the culprits tonight and look at the seals again....

Thanks guys,
Nuker-

 

[Zoom Zoom]

I can try to change the seals again, The clutch bleed is perfect so it has to be the brakes. I don't THINK the bleeder valve is leaking because I put some powder on there to see the drop lines and none from there. It really appears to be the piston seals? Could this put air back into the system? I'm going to take off one of the culprits tonight and look at the seals again....

Thanks guys,
Nuker-

As long as you don’t mash the brake or loose much fluid, you would just need to bleed the one your working on if a lot of fluid leaks out .

 

[ctuinstra]

Could be the seals letting air in if it’s leaking out. Air is thinner than fluid.

 

[Waterdriver]

Possibly a cut in the seal. Fluid coming out isn't a good sign or safe.
Should be able to get new piston seals and be good to go.

 

[TheNuker]

Could be that I put the seals back in wrong too after powder coating. Getting those spring rings in was a PITA.

Nuker-

 

[TheNuker]

So I found this on a random google search of my code P2301 - Ignition Coil 1 Control Circuit High Voltage (Pending, Current, Old)

What is interesting is it has a note that circuit continuity - voltage then a note saying "battery voltage" enable value is over 18.1v so wtf is going on here!

I would think that if the battery volage was spiking that high it would be killing all kinds of things?


Here is the original site I found this on https://gsi.ext.gm.com/gmspo/mode6/pdf/2008/08 GRP02 LNF Engine.pdf

Nuker-

 

[Ross]

I think that a P2301 circuit continuity - voltage
is triggered if the circuit voltage is outside of the normal range, which is defined as > 9.99V and < 18.1V

The rows in that spreadsheet look to be off a little...
engine speed > 9.99 V ??? That doesn't make sense.

 

[Gtstorey]

From 2010 service manual

 

[Ross]

You have already checked your car's running voltage?
I wonder if the high voltage (>18.1) is a flyback voltage spike created by the coil itself.

 

[TheNuker]

You have already checked your car's running voltage?
I wonder if the high voltage (>18.1) is a flyback voltage spike created by the coil itself.

Well when the engine is running it seems fine at idle, I have not checked it while revving or driving.

Nuker-

 

[SmsDetroit]

Well when the engine is running it seems fine at idle, I have not checked it while revving or driving.

Nuker-

How long is it going between melting coils? I know the car can run for a short while on battery alone. Maybe try disconnecting the alternator and go for a short drive.

 

[Zoom Zoom]

Hello Nuker
Is there anything I can take off my engine that you haven’t replaced and send to you to try,
Engine harness, coils, alternator, PCM , MINE RUNS So we know everything works.
Mine can be down for awhile, I just want to help you get yours running. So you can enjoy all the hard work you put into it !

 

[Gtstorey]

I think what the service manual means by “high” voltage is that it is seeing voltage when it’s not supposed to see voltage. It may getting full time voltage on the signal voltage wire causing it “fire” continuously and burning out.

 

[TheNuker]

Okay should get it registered tomorrow, So I can do some real testing. First thing I'm going to do is remove the serp belt and eliminate the alternator/voltage regulator.

If I have another failure while the belt is off, Already new plugs. I can buy the new ECU again and try it, Besides that body harness, BCM? Any chance either of those 2 could be causing this feedback?

Thank you for that offer @Zoom Zoom that is totally awesome!

Nuker-

 

[Gtstorey]

Does the trouble code P2301 show up with ignition on but not running? If so you should be able to check for 12v at pins B & C per the diagram in post #308. If it doesn't show up all of the time, I would run all 4 wires new from pin on one end to pin on the other or at least pins C & B. If it still happens swap the coils again to see if it follows. if it doesn't follow then ECU. I don't think there is anyway the BCM could cause the problem. (someone may need to confirm the repair procedure I posted with your ECU, but I think it should be the same)

There is a chance the P2301 is a coincidence with your problem, but I think you need to fix the DTC before you can move on.

 

[Zoom Zoom]

Okay should get it registered tomorrow, So I can do some real testing. First thing I'm going to do is remove the serp belt and eliminate the alternator/voltage regulator.

If I have another failure while the belt is off, Already new plugs. I can buy the new ECU again and try it, Besides that body harness, BCM? Any chance either of those 2 could be causing this feedback?

Thank you for that offer @Zoom Zoom that is totally awesome!

Nuker-

I wish you great success my Goblin brother

 

[Zoom Zoom]

Okay should get it registered tomorrow, So I can do some real testing. First thing I'm going to do is remove the serp belt and eliminate the alternator/voltage regulator.

If I have another failure while the belt is off, Already new plugs. I can buy the new ECU again and try it, Besides that body harness, BCM? Any chance either of those 2 could be causing this feedback?

Thank you for that offer @Zoom Zoom that is totally awesome!

Nuker-

I have this PCM with a Z54 turbo tune just sitting here, Tune fixed by Chad !! Before you buy one , try before buy .
I went back to the stock KO4 turbo, and stock PCM —— I just want to drive it like I stole it

 

[SmsDetroit]

I have a stock ecu for an lnf. It has a bad baro sensor. I can send it to you. I’d rather see you fry it than a new one or zoom zooms