V1 Traé’s Goblin (06’ SS/SC #501)

[Traé]

I did something similar and never could work around it. I thought about a work around, but never tried it.

I used Honda grom taillights on mine (made a bracket and such). Stock taillight is a led run and brake. Aftermarket is the cool integrated led run, stop and left and right turn in amber. I figured I would hook left and right turn together so the whole thing would flash yellow. Ya. That didn’t work with the stock wiring. Ended up using stock grom taillight and put one of the fancy ones on my grom.

I never could think of a good work around. Maybe others have something.

I’ll see if some others chime in, if not I will return them when I get back from Colorado next week. Thank you! If I can figure something out I’ll let you know!

 

[Sebnuts]

If I’m thinking about it correctly, I would need to pull a wire from the mirror turn signal to power the ambers. What about the brake light?

I pulled wires from the mirrors, like you mention here, and pulled the brake lights from the 3rd brake light wire. Worked great.

 

[Traé]

I pulled wires from the mirrors, like you mention here, and pulled the brake lights from the 3rd brake light wire. Worked great.

I was thinking of this too! I’m glad it worked out for you.

Did you run a wire clear up to the mirror? Or do they come out of the fuse box? If I can tap in at the rear of the car that would save me some work and frustration haha.

I’ll try to find some wiring diagrams too if you’re not 100% sure.

 

[Sebnuts]

I ran the wires all the way up to the mirrors, I'm sure you could tap in somewhere else but it wasn't a big deal anyway.

 

[Traé]

I pulled wires from the mirrors, like you mention here, and pulled the brake lights from the 3rd brake light wire. Worked great.

@Rttoys WE HAVE A SOLUTION

 

[Traé]

I ran the wires all the way up to the mirrors, I'm sure you could tap in somewhere else but it wasn't a big deal anyway.

Awesome! Thank you Seb!

 

[Rttoys]

Sure do

 

[Ross]

The chmsl light works for the brake light. It is the upper 3rd brake light.
Doh! I answer the question, then the forum updates, and adds another 8 replies. You guys already have it figured out.

 

[Traé]

For others wanting to utilize brake lights with separate turn signals, this is how I wired them up;

I tied into the wires supplying the mirror turn signals at the fuse box. I have an 06 SS/SC, yours may differ slightly.

I snipped the brake/turn wires in the harness for each light and tied them both into the 3rd brake light wire to supply power when braking and ran new wires from the fuse box to feed the turn signals.

I have everything wired and installed. The sequential turn signals, running, brake, and reverse lights work like a charm!

 

[Traé]

Could someone confirm my suspicions of my harmonic balancer needing replaced? or something else wrong? It appears that the bolt is wobbling as well. I noticed it this afternoon and do not know what it looked like in the car. I have a feeling I messed something up when removing or reinstalling it. Thank you in advance!

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[Desert Sasqwatch]

It's not a constant wobble in the video, looks like it spins concentric then wobbles a little before it comes back straight. If it was the crank snout bent (or worse yet the whole crankshaft) it should wobble all the time. It has to be just the harmonic balancer. The balancer is fully seated and the bolt is torqued (believe it gets something like 125 ft.lbs.)?

 

[Traé]

It's not a constant wobble in the video, looks like it spins concentric then wobbles a little before it comes back straight. If it was the crank snout bent (or worse yet the whole crankshaft) it should wobble all the time. It has to be just the harmonic balancer. The balancer is fully seated and the bolt is torqued (believe it gets something like 125 ft.lbs.)?

I torqued to 74 Ft.Lbs. then 75°.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Trae, you said you removed the balancer, did you use the correct puller? This would use the 3 bolt holes in the balancer and not using a 'jaw' puller on the outside diameter.

Pulling on the outside diameter could/would damage the elastomer ring between the inside and outside halves of the balancer.

 

[Traé]

Trae, you said you removed the balancer, did you use the correct puller? This would use the 3 bolt holes in the balancer and not using a 'jaw' puller on the outside diameter.
View attachment 48671
Pulling on the outside diameter could/would damage the elastomer ring between the inside and outside halves of the balancer.

I did not need a puller. It slides on and off with ease. I did however use a 2x4 that I cut to hold it in place while removing and torquing. hearing how the part is constructed makes me think that I damaged it if there was too much force being applied to the elastomer ring.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Slid on and off without even a little persuasion? It should be a tight fit with the balancer bolt needed to pull the balancer into its final position. Makes me wonder if someone either resized the balancer bore or if the crank snout is undersized for some reason.

What comes to mind (and I'm only speculating) is if someone was trying to install an ATI or other performance balancer and turned the crank snout down a bit - the ATI is a very tight interference fit and they are difficult to install and even harder to remove. Could be that someone turned down the crank snout a few thousandths making it a loose fit for a stock balancer.

 

[Traé]

Slid on and off without even a little persuasion? It should be a tight fit with the balancer bolt needed to pull the balancer into its final position. Makes me wonder if someone either resized the balancer bore or if the crank snout is undersized for some reason.

What comes to mind (and I'm only speculating) is if someone was trying to install an ATI or other performance balancer and turned the crank snout down a bit - the ATI is a very tight interference fit and they are difficult to install and even harder to remove. Could be that someone turned down the crank snout a few thousandths making it a loose fit for a stock balancer.

I can remove it without prying, i mean, there is some force needed but no tools were used. The tiny bit of space from not having it snug against the shaft could be contributing to the visual wobble. They are priced very fair on rock auto, I may just order one and see if it fits better.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

If someone has their harmonic balancer off their crank, they could make precise measurement (with a caliper that goes to 3 digits) that could be compared with your crank snout. Would help define if it's the balancer or the crankshaft. But like you say, a balancer is pretty inexpensive. Keep the forum informed of your findings, may help someone else with the same problem.

 

[Traé]

If someone has their harmonic balancer off their crank, they could make precise measurement (with a caliper that goes to 3 digits) that could be compared with your crank snout. Would help define if it's the balancer or the crankshaft. But like you say, a balancer is pretty inexpensive. Keep the forum informed of your findings, may help someone else with the same problem.

I will add, if it matters, there is no unusually vibration. I’ve read that when one fails it will wobble and cause a noticeable vibration. The videos I’ve seen of failed ones are MUCH worse than mine.

 

[mike_sno]

I used a 2x4 as well when I torqued mine. It's still ok.

 

[Joebob]

Just as a data point, I removed my stock 2.4 crank pully and it slide right off without excessive force. New replacement 6 rib for LSJ from ZZP also went on with no problem. It is a tight fit ~.002" or so but not interference fit. It seems the high bolt preload holds it all in place. I can measure stock pulley but did not measure the shaft.

Joe