V1 Andy’s Charleston extended City Goblin #308 - 05 SS/SC

[andyseavers]

Is the piston retracted all the way into the caliper? Difficult to see from the photo.

The portion with the gap is a fixed width and this is as wide as it goes.

 

[Traé]

The parking brake kit comes with a set of solstice rotors. Those are from the cobalt as you stated and too thick.

here’s a pic of the solstice calipers on my car.

 

[andyseavers]

I wired in a chassis ground to the run crank and we got the car to wake up, but because that ground needs to be an ecu ground, the injectors were staying open and spraying too much fuel into the engine.

The bundle of black wires that gets grounded to a bolt and then the frame seems to be fine as we ran a ground directly to the negative terminal without any change.

There is no 12v power at the IP IGN. We ran power directly to the IP IGN fuse and the ECM and engine started to crank normally with the key.

Can anyone help us figure out why there wouldn’t be power at that fuse? Harness was done by DF Kit.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Assuming you checked fuses in the fusebox and BCM, could be a loose connector pin on the big plugs - fusebox, could be an intermittent wire in the harness (did you wiggle the harness), could be an open trace on a wiring board in the fusebox (worst case). Your wiring bypass seems to let things function, so the circuit(s) bypassed need to be checked before jumping to a bad ECM. Hopefully you have access to the wiring diagrams for you year and model donor to check for continuity of wires and connections.

 

[andyseavers]

Assuming you checked fuses in the fusebox and BCM, could be a loose connector pin on the big plugs - fusebox, could be an intermittent wire in the harness (did you wiggle the harness), could be an open trace on a wiring board in the fusebox (worst case). Your wiring bypass seems to let things function, so the circuit(s) bypassed need to be checked before jumping to a bad ECM. Hopefully you have access to the wiring diagrams for you year and model donor to check for continuity of wires and connections.

Looks like this wire got pulled loose. Do you know how to connect it to the ECM?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Pulled from the connector or broke off? At the ECM or somewhete else? If it's from the connector and no wire is still visible in the connector pin, the pin will need to removed from the connector body and the wire crimped into the pin - existing pin if it can be salvaged or a new pin. Some builders on the forum have stated they have extra pins if someone needed one or two. If it got pulled from a spliced wire and the pig tail is present, it needs to be soldered to the wire end and have shrink tube or electrical tape applied to keep from shorting. You may need to trace this wire to see where it is connected to get help with understanding what signal or voltage it is and where it comes from/goes to.

 

[andyseavers]

Pulled from the connector or broke off? At the ECM or somewhete else? If it's from the connector and no wire is still visible in the connector pin, the pin will need to removed from the connector body and the wire crimped into the pin - existing pin if it can be salvaged or a new pin. Some builders on the forum have stated they have extra pins if someone needed one or two. If it got pulled from a spliced wire and the pig tail is present, it needs to be soldered to the wire end and have shrink tube or electrical tape applied to keep from shorting. You may need to trace this wire to see where it is connected to get help with understanding what signal or voltage it is and where it comes from/goes to.

I’m not exactly sure. The wire is hanging loose, coming out of the harness near the brake boosters. It’s near the bcm at the front of the goblin. Not sure what to tie it in to.

 

[andyseavers]

I found what seems to be the same pink wire zip tied underneath the steering column. Not sure why that was done by df, but it seems to have activated the pink wire, but now my engine is spitting fuel again. I originally assumed the fuel spitting was a symptom of the wiring being wrong, but now I don’t know. It’s not the injectors; replaced those. It seems like when the engine cranks it’s pushing way too much fuel into the cylinders.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

You originally stated the wire got pulled from the ECM. There should be some indication of where it pulled out - or is this a left over wire that wasn't connected to anything? Going to need more than what you're providing to understand the issue.

Since the wire harness was modified by DF it would have a label on it if it wasn't connected into a jack or plug. I recall that DF would leave key-on accessory wire in the harness and it would be pink or pink with a color stripe. Do you have access to the electrical schematics for the year and model for your donor?

 

[andyseavers]

You originally stated the wire got pulled from the ECM. There should be some indication of where it pulled out - or is this a left over wire that wasn't connected to anything? Going to need more than what you're providing to understand the issue.

Since the wire harness was modified by DF it would have a label on it if it wasn't connected into a jack or plug. I recall that DF would leave key-on accessory wire in the harness and it would be pink or pink with a color stripe. Do you have access to the electrical schematics for the year and model for your donor?

I said it got pulled loose. I don’t know where or how. Let me try and give you as much information as I can (apologies for any repeats). Thanks for the help!

- We have no 12v power at the IP IGN with the car on or off.
- When we hot wire and put 12v directly to the 20a fuse, the car wakes up (throttle body, ecm, etc) we get full power, but the injectors don’t just prime, they just keep spraying and the engine dumps fuel when we crank.
- There is a pink wire with white stripes coming out of the primary harness by the battery and brake booster. When given power, the car lights up like bullet two above. I don’t know why this wire is loose.
- The pink wire with white stripes under the steering column (df kit’s label is too faded to read) has 12v and must be an accessory wire or something similar.
- We have tested all of the grounds and the fuses.

Hope this helps! Wiring below for 06 cobalt vs 05.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

The pink wire in question that is dangling, does it have voltage with the key off? In ACC? Key on? Where does it go to at the other end? Trace it to find out.

Since I am not there to see things I can only guess about where it came from/needs to be connected. Looking at the BCM diagram, first page (230799), there is a pink wire at A2 pin that comes from the IP IGN fuse and RUN CRANK relay. But there are also other pink wires from F5/C1 and B2/C5 and E6 and B3. Look at this page of the diagram to see where these pink wires go to and check to see if these connectors at these modules have one connected.

I'm trying to help you with this, but you need to look at the things I'm pointing out to check, please. It is clear you are missing 12v somewhere and the dangling pink wire could be the problem, but it may not since the PCM/ECM is back by the engine. Keep trying, electrical issues take time to chase down.

 

[Robinjo]

but now my engine is spitting fuel again. I originally assumed the fuel spitting was a symptom of the wiring being wrong, but now I don’t know. It’s not the injectors; replaced those. It seems like when the engine cranks it’s pushing way too much fuel into the cylinders.

When my SC version did this, I had the Injector harness and another harness (maybe to the coil packs?) swapped. They are in the same general area of each other in the engine bay and very much swapable. My symptoms were that it would try to crank (and even sputter occasionally) and was pushing fuel out of the tailpipe after a bit. Once I got them correct, I had to put different colored tape at both ends of the loom around the connectors so that I could tell them apart for the next time I took the engine out.

 

[Ross]

Swappable electrical connectors here.

 

[andyseavers]

I still don’t have power to the 20an IP IGN fuse, but I did use the above diagram and had one of the plugs swapped. I was able to send power through the pink/white wire to bypass the fuse and was able to get the engine to start and run! First start, finally! Very satisfying.

Now I just need to figure out how to get ignition power.

in a (much) earlier thread, it was said I might not need some of these plugs for a fan; however, chtgpt said: Red 2-pin connector is an Alternator Field Connector

• This plugs into the alternator’s small port (next to the main charge stud).
• Wire colors: typically red and gray or brown.
• Function: One wire provides ignition voltage, the other connects to the PCM for voltage regulation.

this could be my problem, but I can find a place to plug it in. At this point, it seems like I just need to figure out where to plug these in.

 

[Robinjo]

The red and brown plug is for the fan, which isn’t needed.

 

[andyseavers]

After working today, I am able to close the relay manually (by taking the cover off and pinching it), which turns the car on and I’m able to start it. It appears that I have the interchangeable plugs in the right spot as I assume the car wouldn’t start otherwise, but at this point who knows.

Both 30 and 85 on the run crank relay have 12v. If someone can help me figure out what is preventing that relay from closing when the key is on, I feel like I’ll finally be done.

 

[Ross]

I am going to guess that your car doesn't have data flowing correctly on your GM high speed LAN wires.
On your OBDii port, do you have 60 ohms resistance from pin 6 to 14? (Checking if the two 120 ohm terminating resistors are in place.)
Using a scan tool, what OBDii codes does your car have left?

 

[andyseavers]

I replaced the fuse block and got the lights back and the issue I have been dealing with for two years is gone. I’m very close. Here’s the issue I’m dealing with now:

- Can’t get the engine to crank. When I manually trigger the crank relay, it fires right up, but then the engine revs like it’s full throttle. I’m guessing this issue is connected to why the key won’t crank the engine. I am pushing in the clutch sensor. The fuel pump primes as it should. The throttle body moves when hitting the throttle. Anyone have any recommendations on what to try? A few notes:

@Ross Any ideas would be appreciated!

 

[andyseavers]

I am going to guess that your car doesn't have data flowing correctly on your GM high speed LAN wires.
On your OBDii port, do you have 60 ohms resistance from pin 6 to 14? (Checking if the two 120 ohm terminating resistors are in place.)
Using a scan tool, what OBDii codes does your car have left?

Currently I have
P0449 - Evaporative Emission System Vent Valve / Solenoid Circuit
P0452 - Evaporative Emission System Pressure Sensor / Switch low
P2229 - Barometric Pressure Circuit High

 

[Ross]

I would start with that P2229 diagnostic trouble code.
The 2 evap DTCs are normal for a goblin.