V1 Nukers City Goblin - 2009 SS/TC number 2 build

[ctuinstra]

Just purchased a set of Toyo R1R from Tire Rack and being delivered tomorrow. They seem to be available, at least in my size.

 

[TheNuker]

Okay so some weird ass ****.
I never realized before that when I turned my key to power the radiator fan also started.
I put the new ECU in turned key to power and the fan kicked on and turned off after about 10 seconds. I put the original ECU in and the fan no longer turns on when the key is turned to power.

I have also observed that the purple wire is no longer showing +7-11volts since the fan stopped turning on. I checked the fan 30a fuse and it appears fine.

tomorrow I’ll reconnect the purple wire and see what it’s reading but this is really weird.....

Nuker-

 

[SmsDetroit]

Okay so some weird ass ****.
I never realized before that when I turned my key to power the radiator fan also started.
I put the new ECU in turned key to power and the fan kicked on and turned off after about 10 seconds. I put the original ECU in and the fan no longer turns on when the key is turned to power.

I have also observed that the purple wire is no longer showing +7-11volts since the fan stopped turning on. I checked the fan 30a fuse and it appears fine.

tomorrow I’ll reconnect the purple wire and see what it’s reading but this is really weird.....

Nuker-

That reminds me of when I was younger I build a Camaro and had to wire my fan to a toggle switch. I took power from the wrong spot and if I had the fan running when I turned the ignition off the car would stay running. Once I moved the power wire the problem stopped. I’m wondering if you somehow have the cooling fan back feeding power to the ECU

 

[ctuinstra]

Sounds to me what you managed to do was.

1. Reseat all connections on the ECU, twice.
2. Reset the ECU by removing all power.

Either one of those could have solved the issue, potentially.

 

[JBINTX]

Okay so some weird ass ****.
I never realized before that when I turned my key to power the radiator fan also started.
I put the new ECU in turned key to power and the fan kicked on and turned off after about 10 seconds. I put the original ECU in and the fan no longer turns on when the key is turned to power.

I have also observed that the purple wire is no longer showing +7-11volts since the fan stopped turning on. I checked the fan 30a fuse and it appears fine.

tomorrow I’ll reconnect the purple wire and see what it’s reading but this is really weird.....

Nuker-

Isn’t the fan one of the things that is a variable that can be changed in HP Tuners?

 

[Ross]

I remember HP Tuners having on/off switches for 3 fans, but I don't remember there being a speed setting for the fans.
I did find how to set the temperature that the fan turns on and off.

 

[TheNuker]

Started working on all the front suspension tonight! Tires showed up so hoping to be able to test drive by wednesday!

Nuker-

 

[TheNuker]

Few updates from today’s progress!
Nuker-

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Looking good. You may want to put some kind of heat shield on the charge air tube coming out of the intercooler. It looks like it's about 3-4 inches from the exhaust pipe and the up to 1200 degree radiant heat will really warm up your charge air that you are trying hard to keep cool.

 

[TheNuker]

Haha yeah I was planning to wrap the exhaust with the titanium wrap, I’m wondering if that will be good enough.

Nuker

Looking good. You may want to put some kind of heat shield on the charge air tube coming out of the intercooler. It looks like it's about 3-4 inches from the exhaust pipe and the up to 1200 degree radiant heat will really warm up your charge air that you are trying hard to keep cool.

 

[Waterdriver]

Maybe a turbo blanket for exhaust housing as well.

 

[Rauq]

You'll be fine with just a heat wrap, you're likely to pick up more heat in the intake air from the sun on the intercooler than radiated heat on that bend in the charge pipe. I think we calculated previously at 300 crank hp and 3" tubing the air going through the pipe was about 100 mph meaning it has contact with minimal surface area for a fraction of a second.

 

[TheNuker]

Started to adjust shifter tonight, To keep the reversers straight up while shifter is in neutral it seems my cables need to be about 1/2-3/4" longer? I even turned the ball joints out until they had like 2 threads and its still just off. What am I missing here?

Thanks!
Nuker-

 

[SmsDetroit]

You might need cable extensions. They had some kits go out that need extensions. Just call Adam and he will take care of it

 

[TheNuker]

Made a bit of progress today, wheels will hit rear shocks so ordered some bib cebtric spacers. Will hopefully get the brakes installed tomorrow.

Nuker-

 

[G Atsma]

By all means, avoid "bib cebtric" spacers. Hub centric will do you a LOT more good... LOL

 

[TheNuker]

Got a bunch done tonight, brakes and clutch bled.

Started on the steering wheel but the DF quick release does not seem deep enough to connect to the spline adapter after you out the nut on.

Any ideas?

Thanks!
Nuker-

 

[SmsDetroit]

Got a bunch done tonight, brakes and clutch bled.

Started on the steering wheel but the DF quick release does not seem deep enough to connect to the spline adapter after you out the nut on.

Any ideas?

Thanks!
Nuker-

I just put mine on and ran the nut down. The Crome adapter bolted right over the top of it. The center is tight around the nut but fits.

 

[Rauq]

Is that a drilled hole in the spline adapter for the horn button? I've been thinking about doing that but haven't gotten around to pulling the spline adapter off to center the steering wheel, much less run the horn button.

 

[OptimizePrime]

Those wheels & tires make my pants tight