V1 Nukers City Goblin - 2009 SS/TC number 2 build

[TheNuker]

Gotta be the cheaper option than buying new coil packs every time one pops

Fully agree, I'm going to do another 100 miles or so, buy a new alternator and see what happens. Nothing like a brand new one being bad..... At least i'm still hoping that is it now.

Thanks guys,
Nuker-

 

[TheNuker]

Okay so I drove around another 30 ish miles tonight after replacing the alternator with a brand new AC delco. Zero problems for the driving tonight.

did the first oil change to the second fill of break in oil and will run this until 500 miles. Currently about 150.

This was the battery voltage after I got home and **** the car off.

Nuker-

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

13.5 volts is about normal on a 12 Volt system. The nominal operating range is 12.5 to 14.5 volts. Anything over 16 volts or under 11 volts will cause some problems on most vehicles. You're in good shape.

 

[Zoom Zoom]

Okay so I drove around another 30 ish miles tonight after replacing the alternator with a brand new AC delco. Zero problems for the driving tonight.

did the first oil change to the second fill of break in oil and will run this until 500 miles. Currently about 150.

This was the battery voltage after I got home and **** the car off.

Nuker-

View attachment 25332

Finally I’m glad everything worked out for you, Now just drive and have fun

 

[TheNuker]

Drove another 80 miles between yesterday and tonight! So basically I replaced the spark plugs and the alternator since the last burned coil a couple hundred miles ago!
I’ll keep going until I have a failure or 1000 miles.

Going to hopefully get the hood painted later this week, and the second set of front springs is at the powder coater so they will match in a couple weeks!

Thank you to everyone that spent time helping me troubleshoot the electrical issues, and I hope they are gone!

Final issue to tackle is the no run with MAF plugged in. One problem at a time!

Nuker-

 

[TheNuker]

Well she is running with the MAF plugged in now. I replaced with with a new ACDLECO..... Getting really tired of brand new bad parts LOL.

Started right up with new one plugged in and drove around 40 miles tonight. WOOHOO!

Final issue to tackle round 2, Throttle surging during steady driving. I never experienced this on the first goblin. If I'm in say 3rd gear very smooth road foot not moving the throttle will surge 4-5-6 times then steady out. It will do it also on medium acceleration like getting on the highway on ramp.

Anyone else experiencing this? It was doing it also with the MAF un plugged.

Nuker-

 

[Zoom Zoom]

Well she is running with the MAF plugged in now. I replaced with with a new ACDLECO..... Getting really tired of brand new bad parts LOL.

Started right up with new one plugged in and drove around 40 miles tonight. WOOHOO!

Final issue to tackle round 2, Throttle surging during steady driving. I never experienced this on the first goblin. If I'm in say 3rd gear very smooth road foot not moving the throttle will surge 4-5-6 times then steady out. It will do it also on medium acceleration like getting on the highway on ramp.

Anyone else experiencing this? It was doing it also with the MAF un plugged.

Nuker-

I was having a lot of issues with bucking , especially in 1st and second gear taking off and then surging at higher speeds, I had Chad help me with my tune and it seemed to do better at first but still happened a lot so I just went back to the Stock KO4 turbo and PCM and it drives 95 % better just a very little surge in 1st gear now , I don’t know if I’m still expecting it to surge and haven’t learned to drive it the smooth way , Compared to the way it used to surge with the Z54 turbo

 

[TheNuker]

I was having a lot of issues with bucking , especially in 1st and second gear taking off and then surging at higher speeds, I had Chad help me with my tune and it seemed to do better at first but still happened a lot so I just went back to the Stock KO4 turbo and PCM and it drives 95 % better just a very little surge in 1st gear now , I don’t know if I’m still expecting it to surge and haven’t learned to drive it the smooth way , Compared to the way it used to surge with the Z54 turbo

Good to know, Maybe the larger turbo just causes some of that. I plan on having a local performance shop do a real dyno tune on it sometime in the future, I'll keep my ZZP tune file I pulled off my ECU just in case

Nuker-

 

[TheNuker]

I was having a lot of issues with bucking , especially in 1st and second gear taking off and then surging at higher speeds, I had Chad help me with my tune and it seemed to do better at first but still happened a lot so I just went back to the Stock KO4 turbo and PCM and it drives 95 % better just a very little surge in 1st gear now , I don’t know if I’m still expecting it to surge and haven’t learned to drive it the smooth way , Compared to the way it used to surge with the Z54 turbo

okay @Zoom Zoom
Here is the deal lol….. so when it is doing the surging I also notice it sounds different and power is Reduced for sure. Fast but not FAST.

I pulled the power to the PCM and let it reset for about 30 seconds. Plugged it back in start it up and it sounds so much more refined. Power feels so smooth and acceleration is faster then I need. I drive 10 miles park shut car off for a minute turn it back on and it sounds different and drives sluggish and surging again.

So to recap I did this test 3 times and it repeated exactly each time. After reset it’s perfect until I turn off and back on again. No surging super smooth.

going to do some logging in HpT tomorrow in both **** mode and scary mode and see what everything looks like.

So maybe there is hope with our LDK with Z54.

Nuker-

 

[Zoom Zoom]

okay @Zoom Zoom
Here is the deal lol….. so when it is doing the surging I also notice it sounds different and power is Reduced for sure. Fast but not FAST.

I pulled the power to the PCM and let it reset for about 30 seconds. Plugged it back in start it up and it sounds so much more refined. Power feels so smooth and acceleration is faster then I need. I drive 10 miles park shut car off for a minute turn it back on and it sounds different and drives sluggish and surging again.

So to recap I did this test 3 times and it repeated exactly each time. After reset it’s perfect until I turn off and back on again. No surging super smooth.

going to do some logging in HpT tomorrow in both **** mode and scary mode and see what everything looks like.

So maybe there is hope with our LDK with Z54.

Nuker-

Yes , I never tried that method but I hope you can figure it out
I just got tired of messing with it and wanted to drive without the bucking. Everyone is looking at you and your bucking in first and second gear was worse sometimes than others, So I put a used KO4 and switched out the stage 1 sensors and bam what a difference.
I can always put the Z54 back on but for now I’m just having fun driving my GOBLIN 1 mile at a time

 

[Gtstorey]

okay @Zoom Zoom
Here is the deal lol….. so when it is doing the surging I also notice it sounds different and power is Reduced for sure. Fast but not FAST.

I pulled the power to the PCM and let it reset for about 30 seconds. Plugged it back in start it up and it sounds so much more refined. Power feels so smooth and acceleration is faster then I need. I drive 10 miles park shut car off for a minute turn it back on and it sounds different and drives sluggish and surging again.

So to recap I did this test 3 times and it repeated exactly each time. After reset it’s perfect until I turn off and back on again. No surging super smooth.

going to do some logging in HpT tomorrow in both **** mode and scary mode and see what everything looks like.

So maybe there is hope with our LDK with Z54.

Nuker-

So it is probably running in speed density mode for a short time on reset or it’s clearing out some of the “learning tables” (fuel trim type stuff) and for some reason it’s screwing things up instead of making them better. That’s about all I can think up that would change due to a reset.

 

[Ross]

I wonder if unplugging power gets rid of some OBDII codes. When those codes get thrown again, it goes into a kind of limp mode, or pulls timing. The HP Tuner logs should help.

 

[Waterdriver]

Does unplugging it put it back into a learning mode? Using some predefined values? Or ignoring the existing values?
Just spitballing.

 

[Gtstorey]

I wonder if unplugging power gets rid of some OBDII codes. When those codes get thrown again, it goes into a kind of limp mode, or pulls timing. The HP Tuner logs should help.

I’m assuming that trouble codes are being checked for. I’m not sure how codes that are told to not report in HP Tuners might cause it to go to “limp mode” without being seeing though.

 

[G Atsma]

On most cars, OBDII codes are stored until deleted with a scanner. Battery disconnect won't erase them.

 

[Gtstorey]

On most cars, OBDII codes are stored until deleted with a scanner. Battery disconnect won't erase them.

The codes will be stored but on some systems they will rerun test at various times and won't be "active" if it no longer sees the problem. I don't know if there are any on the turbo ECU that would only retest after battery disconnect.

There are a lot of discussions on the Camaro5 forum of the ECU swapping to a low octane fuel/timing table (causing a loss of power) if it senses knock that won't self correct without disconnecting power. It sounds like something similar may be happening here.

 

[TheNuker]

The codes will be stored but on some systems they will rerun test at various times and won't be "active" if it no longer sees the problem. I don't know if there are any on the turbo ECU that would only retest after battery disconnect.

There are a lot of discussions on the Camaro5 forum of the ECU swapping to a low octane fuel/timing table (causing a loss of power) if it senses knock that won't self correct without disconnecting power. It sounds like something similar may be happening here.

I'll check for codes later tonight, Putting 93 in I can also try adding a couple bottles of octane booster to my next fill up and see. Did not get to do any logging yesterday was too **** hot.

Nuker-

 

[Gtstorey]

I wasn't really trying to say that is your problem, just more of a general discussion of things that might change on a hard reset of the ECU. However, it might be part of your problem if you are running 87 octane, especially if in real hot weather. I just don't know if these ECU's might swap tables based upon knock that are reset with a reboot. It could be a fuel trim table that might changed also.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Hmm, maybe you need one of these to help with the potential knock? Water/meth is a magical thing when correctly applied.

Snow Performance 210 Boost Cooler Stage 2.5 Water/Meth Injection - Braided AN 43033558698 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Snow Performance 210 Boost Cooler Stage 2.5 Water/Meth Injection - Braided AN at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[TheNuker]

Hmm, maybe you need one of these to help with the potential knock? Water/meth is a magical thing when correctly applied.

Snow Performance 210 Boost Cooler Stage 2.5 Water/Meth Injection - Braided AN 43033558698 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Snow Performance 210 Boost Cooler Stage 2.5 Water/Meth Injection - Braided AN at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Tehehe, Yeah I am going to drive around a couple miles tonight when it cools off and check both conditions and see. It really feels like a timing/fuel thing to me. It's still making 22lb of boost in both modes.

Nuker-