V1 Towerdog's Indiana Street Goblin Build (#250) 07 SS/SC Donor

[Towerdog]

If it is the slave cylinder it may need to be shimmed to prevent any chance of over extension and fluid loss (while sucking in some air). Getting that distance correct between the slave cylinder and clutch plate arms/levers is a challenge if any non-stock part is used - or wear on the parts.

Man that makes alot of sence.

 

[Towerdog]

Man that makes alot of sence.

Is there supposed to be an "air" gap? Or does it ride on the fingers?

 

[WYGoblin]

Is there supposed to be an "air" gap? Or does it ride on the fingers?

This is what I followed to check the throw out bearing.

 

[Towerdog]

This is what I followed to check the throw out bearing.

Thank you. I will have to shove the camera down in there and check it.

 

[Towerdog]

I know this is not a scientific way to measure but it doesnt look like there is a 1/4"+ gap in there.

 

[Towerdog]

Current state of affairs! After getting the trans off and measuring the air gap on the aftermarket and the new OEM bearing was .500, So a .250 spacer is in route. The aftermarket bearing's seal was the culprit for the spots of trans fluid on the floor.

 

[MR.812]

Wow
i know you have been fighting it for awhile now. i hope this fixes it.

 

[Towerdog]

Wow
i know you have been fighting it for awhile now. i hope this fixes it.

You and me both!

 

[MR.812]

It’s getting real over here..

 

[Towerdog]

Wow you are not messing around! Looks good, like the raised white letters on the tires.

 

[Towerdog]

I am currently on the verge of dumping five gallons of gas on this thing and torching it!!!

Thursday I installed a .250 bearing spacer along with a new OEM throw out bearing, bled the system by cycling the clutch pedal (old school) Seemed to be fine, tested it in the shop yesterday, Still very little throw in the pedal. Today it finally stopped raining so I got it out for a drive. No clutch by the time I got to the end of my 380' driveway!

Everything in the system is new with the exception of the pedal itself. New Master, DF line from master to elbow, New elbow and seal, New clutch pipe, and new throw-out bearing.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

This problem has turned into a real head scratcher. Is it still leaking - even a little - anywhere that you can see? Air can go back into even a little leak easier than the fluid can come out. Assuming all of the gaskets and o-rings are also new, it has to be a connection. Offhand thinking it is one of the 'splice' connections going from the DF hose size to the master cylinder or slave fitting at the elbow is sucking air???

We can see this has been a very frustrating adventure, but hang in there. You will eventually find the culprit and get it fixed.

 

[Towerdog]

This problem has turned into a real head scratcher. Is it still leaking - even a little - anywhere that you can see? Air can go back into even a little leak easier than the fluid can come out. Assuming all of the gaskets and o-rings are also new, it has to be a connection. Offhand thinking it is one of the 'splice' connections going from the DF hose size to the master cylinder or slave fitting at the elbow is sucking air???

We can see this has been a very frustrating adventure, but hang in there. You will eventually find the culprit and get it fixed.

Its probably the reservoir you sold me..

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Its probably the reservoir you sold me..

I hope not. I can only vouch for its function and integrity as removed from the donor. Plus the reservoir is not on the pressure side of the clutch circuit. Any air in the feed line should float back to the reservoir, if it is mounted above the master cylinder.

 

[Towerdog]

I hope not. I can only vouch for its function and integrity as removed from the donor. Plus the reservoir is not on the pressure side of the clutch circuit. Any air in the feed line should float back to the reservoir, if it is mounted above the master cylinder.

Ohh I was just kidding. Im thinking about getting a remote res for the clutch just to eliminate any doubts in that. I am in Alaska for the week and have cardboard under the car to see if there are any minor drips. From Thursday to yesterday there was nothing but water from what I assume got trapped in the bell housing from me washing the car on Friday.

 

[Gtstorey]

If you get to the point where you have to pull the transmission again, I would assemble the whole hydraulic system without the transmission by restraining the throw out bearing and checking for leaks. That was going to be my next step when when I found my leaking elbow.

 

[Towerdog]

If you get to the point where you have to pull the transmission again, I would assemble the whole hydraulic system without the transmission by restraining the throw out bearing and checking for leaks. That was going to be my next step when when I found my leaking elbow.

I think my next move, as stated above is to isolate the res from the brakes.... have 0 problems w the brakes but I caint see through the stock res to see what is going on... I do know that the first few times I bled the system the fluid was black which was puzzling due to everything being new.... maybe the office is partially plugged and it is not getting enough fluid..

BTW how much travel in the pedal do you have before the clutch is fully engaged?
Mine was the same as before I added the spacer, about 1".

 

[SmsDetroit]

I think my next move, as stated above is to isolate the res from the brakes.... have 0 problems w the brakes but I caint see through the stock res to see what is going on... I do know that the first few times I bled the system the fluid was black which was puzzling due to everything being new.... maybe the office is partially plugged and it is not getting enough fluid..

BTW how much travel in the pedal do you have before the clutch is fully engaged?
Mine was the same as before I added the spacer, about 1".

If everything is new sounds like a bad slave cylinder. The only other suggestion is have is follow the steel line to make sure there are no cracks in it. My pedal engages about an inch off the floor but isn’t fully engaged until about halfway out.

 

[Ross]

I think my next move, as stated above is to isolate the res from the brakes.... have 0 problems w the brakes but I caint see through the stock res to see what is going on... I do know that the first few times I bled the system the fluid was black which was puzzling due to everything being new.... maybe the office is partially plugged and it is not getting enough fluid..

BTW how much travel in the pedal do you have before the clutch is fully engaged?
Mine was the same as before I added the spacer, about 1".

Here is an option to supply clutch fluid that has worked for well for me.

 

[SmsDetroit]

Correction. Mine starts engaging about 3” up and fully engaged about 3/4 of the way out