Can you show a picture of your button panelI have gotten some shiz done the past few days;
After the rear brakes are hooked up I will be ready to fill with brake fluid. I do have a brake bleeder vac on loan from a friend so I'm hoping this makes the job a bit easier.
- Tunnel cover and fire wall panels were fitted for alignment and then drilled for rivnuts
- My rivnut tool did not come with a mandrel for M4 but one is arriving saturday
- HX fan installed and wired
- Diode will be here saturday
- Rear parking brake kit came in
- Caliper stripping, degreasing, and painting will commence this evening
- 3d printed button panel was installed
- Buttons arrive saturday
- resistors will need to be sourced for cruise control
Are there any known problematic area you have noticed while filling with fluid that can be checked prior to mitigate leakage and possible damage to paint?
Can you show a picture of your button panel
Red loctite or some other compound that seals threads (and withstands brake fluid) on the brass threaded fittings on both sides of the lines that go from the reservoir to the master cylinder.Are there any known problematic area you have noticed while filling with fluid that can be checked prior to mitigate leakage and possible damage to paint?
I did use Teflon tape on these 4 fittings from reading another post but did not apply Loctite. I may take them back apart and apply some.Red loctite or some other compound that seals threads (and withstands brake fluid) on the brass threaded fittings on both sides of the lines that go from the reservoir to the master cylinder.
For what it's worth, I feel like I've read as many stories about vacuum bleeders not working on Goblins as I have success stories using pressure bleeders. I kept sucking air into the system on the aforementioned reservoir-master lines, even though they held fluid just fine. With the pressure bleeder, I can do an entire brake system fluid flush in 10 minutes, plus the upstream side of the clutch hydraulics (bleeder to master). The downstream side (bleeder to slave) has to be done with pumping the pedal, but the pressure bleeder helps there as well.
"Be cautious of what you do well, you will likely be forced to do it all the time"You're hired! Your electrical wiring and routing looks top notch!
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Ahh that link helped tremendously. I don’t have the seal for the top of the nipple sticking out of the transmission.Looks like the o-ring is in the top groove - good. Is there anything inside the elbow, like another o-ring? Is the spring clip installed correctly into the elbow slot before trying to press the elbow onto the nipple? A couple photos of the elbow may help.