V1 Whidbey Goblin, track chassis for the streets. 05 SS donor.

[Yustas]

Guessing it is leaking rear main seal. Take trans off to check/replace.

 

[Whidbey Goblin]

I would finish the Goblin and as long as the oil leak is not too bad drive it for a while. When the engine gets up to temperature a few times the seals will soften and conform better which might solve the leak problem. If it doesn't at least you got to drive enough to test the clutch and know if anything other problems need to be addressed while you are in there.

I was wondering if that would be the smart move. Thanks for confirming that, that’s exactly what I’ll do.

 

[Towerdog]

I was wondering if that would be the smart move. Thanks for confirming that, that’s exactly what I’ll do.

I get a quarter to fifty cent piece size spot at random times at the same spot. It can go a week w/o a drop and then out of the blue there is one on the floor.

 

[Whidbey Goblin]

Finally pulled the wheels out to get a sneak preview while I wait for parts.

 

[Whidbey Goblin]

These are the little retaining clips for the rear control arms. (originally front control arms in the donor) Are they necessary? Did everybody use them or did most people pitch them?

 

[Ross]

I used them. But looking at your picture, I'm not sure why. Best part is no part.

 

[Whidbey Goblin]

These are the little retaining clips for the rear control arms. (originally front control arms in the donor) Are they necessary? Did everybody use them or did most people pitch them?

The only reason I can see to have them is a sort of dust guard for the rubber bushing.

 

[SmsDetroit]

I painted and reinstalled mine. Like you not sure why they are there but I put them back because I took them off

 

[Whidbey Goblin]

So I received most of the rest of my parts. Among them are some ball joints that are labeled “tie rod end goblin front”. Am I supposed to remove the existing tie rod ends and put these in their place?

 

[SmsDetroit]

So I received most of the rest of my parts. Among them are some ball joints that are labeled “tie rod end goblin front”. Am I supposed to remove the existing tie rod ends and put these in their place?

Correct. The stock tie rods get moved to the rear. The new ones go on the front

 

[Whidbey Goblin]

This just doesn’t seem right. It looks like with a little bit more travel it’s just going to bind at this heim joint. I’m pretty sure I assembled everything correctly, passenger side is worse than the driver side. Did I get a bad set of upper arms?

 

[Ross]

That looks good to me. Remove a shock/strut bolt, so you can move the suspension up and down by hand. Check the maximum height, check for binding, check it is smooth.

 

[Whidbey Goblin]

Did I get my steering arm in the correct holes? Seems like there are multiple options. This is the driver side.

 

[JBINTX]

Did I get my steering arm in the correct holes? Seems like there are multiple options. This is the driver side.

You are correct.
and the up/down travel on that Heim joint is not nearly as much as you might think.

 

[Ross]

Did I get my steering arm in the correct holes? Seems like there are multiple options. This is the driver side.

The lower you can get the tie rod, the less bump steer you will get.
I would move the bolt up to use the green circled hole.

 

[Whidbey Goblin]

Progress in the front.

 

[Whidbey Goblin]

Can anyone tell me which one is left and which one is right? They are definitely different.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Compress each one and measure the length. Are they different lengths?

 

[Whidbey Goblin]

Compress each one and measure the length. Are they different lengths?

I thought they were but I just confirmed they are the same length. One of them has a larger diameter shaft and the outboard CV has larger overall diameter. Maybe that’s all that was available?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

The thicker shaft diameter is a SS/TC shaft, the thinner one is most likely a SS/SC shaft. Since the Goblin is so light, the difference in shaft diameter will likely not create any torque difference issues (the thinner shaft will have more rotational flex).
Just me, but I would use the thinner one on the driver's side to (theoretically) be closer to the flex of the intermediate shaft and passenger side shaft.